Summer Climbing: K2, Broad Peak, and Beyond

After the spring climbing season in the Himalaya was cut short due to the earthquake in Nepal, the mountaineering scene has been unusually quiet for the past few months. But now that summer is nearly upon us that is about to change, as climbing teams start to get back to business and turn their attention to other big peaks outside of Nepal and Tibet.

With the arrival of June, the seasonal monsoons are once again hitting central Asia, making it unsafe to climb in the Himalaya proper. That means that all the expeditions to Everest, Lhotse, Annapurna, and the like would have gone home by now regardless of the earthquake. There is generally a short lull between the end of the spring climbing season in Nepal, and the start of operations elsewhere. That lull won't last for long however, and even now expeditions are gearing up for the challenges ahead.

In preparation for the start of the summer climbing season, Alan Arnette has taken a comprehensive look at some of the teams that we'll be hearing a lot about in the coming weeks. Those climbers have set their eyes on some big 8000 meter peaks in Pakistan, and in the days ahead I'll be watching their progress closely.

On K2, the commercial teams have moved onto the mountain in recent years, and this year there will be two squads led by Madison Mountaineering and Himalayan Experience. Both of those outfitters have a great deal of experience on major peaks, and they hope to continue the momentum that was started last year when an unprecedented 40 climbers found success on the world's toughest mountain. But K2 is fickle, and the weather there is incredibly unpredictable, so I wouldn't count on a repeat of 2014, which was a banner one indeed.


Amongst the climbers attempting K2 this season are David Tait, a man who has summited Everest on five separate occasions. If you've followed David's expeditions over the years, you've probably heard him talk about retiring from the big mountains on more than one occasion, yet he continues to find reasons to come back. K2 will be a different kind of challenge for him however, and it will be interesting to read his thoughts on the mountain.

Alan also points out that there will be teams led by Nazir Expeditions, Adventure Tours Pakistan, and Seven Summits Treks, which operates out of Nepal. These outfitters provide less support for the climbers on the mountain, and are more like a loosely affiliated group that are sharing a climbing permit.

Elsewhere, there will be several teams on Broad Peak, which is sometimes used as an acclimatization climb ahead of K2. Last year, Chris Burke was able to summit the "Savage Mountain" but her efforts to bag both K2 and Broad Peak were thwarted. She'll return this summer to try to nab BP and claim her ninth 8000-meter mountain.

The Gasherbrums (I and II) will play host to a team of international climbers who will be working together to bag both summits. The two mountains pose a formidable challenge for any mountaineer, but are also excellent peaks to gain experience on before proceeding on to the other eight-thousanders. These mountains are rarely very busy, but it is always interesting to follow progress on them none the less.

Finally, Alan is reporting that Nanga Parbat will remain empty once again this summer. After the terrorist attack on that mountain back in 2013 – which left 11 dead – few teams have wanted to venture to Nanga during the summer season. It has been the target of numerous winter expeditions in recent years, but it seems that teams will shy away again due to security concerns.

It should also be noted that the climbing season on Denali is in full swing as well, with numerous teams already on the mountain. While not as tall as these massive 8000-meter peaks, the Alaskan mountain is as challenging as the come. We'll be keeping an eye on proceedings there as well, with updates as they are warranted.

That's the round-up of the summer climbing season ahead. Stay tuned for regular updates.

Winter Climbs 2015: It's Over On Nanga Parbat

The winter climbing season came to an end this past weekend when the international team of mountaineers on Nanga Parbat called it quits. The squad, which consisted of Spaniard Alex Txikon, Italian Daniele Nardi, and Pakistani Muhammad Ali Sadpara, had put themselves in a position to become the first men to summit that mountain during the winter. But a navigational error on Friday kept them from reaching the top, and after that the health of Ali became the primary concern for the team, which struggled to get back down the mountain.

After spending most of last week working on their summit bid, the team was exhausted from their efforts. Still, they managed to climb up to Camp 4, located at 7200 meters (23,622 ft), which put them into position to make a push towards the top on Friday. They set off at 2 AM in the dark, and climbed as high as 8000 meters (26,246 ft) before they realized that they had missed a turn that would have taken them to the summit. With no way to proceed upwards, they elected to durn back to C4, where they would rest and have another go at the summit on Saturday.

But that second attempt on the summit would never come. That night, Ali began exhibiting signs of altitude sickness and his teammates knew that they had to get him down from the mountain. The Pakistani climber was suffering from a severe headache, dizziness, and incoherent speech, which are all indicators that something was seriously wrong. Rather than trying to reach the top, the team now needed to descend as quickly as possible.

That descent would not be easy however. Ali was able to move under his own power, but he was moving very slowly and clumsily. Worse yet, the route down from C4 to C3 was not in good condition, and the trio had to down climb without the use of fixed ropes. It was a treacherous situation, but fortunately they were able to reach Camp 3 safely.


From there, things improved, and they were able to connect up to fixed ropes to take them down to Camp 2. By that point, Ali was beginning to show signs of improvement, as the reduced altitude started to take the pressure off from his altitude sickness. The fourth member of the team, Muhammad Kahn, also came up to assist with the descent.

Apparently Ali's disorientation from altitude sickness began on summit day, but Alex and Daniele were not aware of the situation until it was almost too late. The Pakistani has summited Nanga Parbat twice, and so he was leading the team up the mountain when they were making their summit bid. But because he was disoriented, he missed the navigational cues that would have allowed them to go to the top. The other two member of the squad were unaware of this error until it was too late, and once they returned to C4, it became apparent that Ali was in trouble. Earlier signs that were an indication that something was wrong included Ali attempting to wear a sock as a glove, and his inability to answer questions about his age and family.

Fortunately, the entire team is back in Base Camp now and resting a bit before they leave the mountain. Ali is said to have improved dramatically, and should be back to full health as they continue their descent.

This ends the winter climbing season for another year, and once again both Nanga Parbat and K2 remain unclimbed during that season. Now, the mountaineering community will take a brief break before turning its attention to Everest and the spring climbing season in the Himalaya. In about two weeks climbers will begin arriving in Kathmandu and things will start to get very busy there once again. For now, though it is the calm before the storm, with plenty of action to come in the very near future. Stay tuned!

Winter Climbs 2015: Nanga Parbat Team in Camp 4 After Failed Summit Bid

The long, strange winter climbing season on Nanga Parbat continues today with news that the climbing team on the mountain is back in Camp 4 after a failed attempt at the summit. It seems that three of the climbers – Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi, Muhammad Ali Sadpara – were very close to completing the first winter ascent of the mountain, but unfortunately they took a wrong turn in the dark, missed their intended route to the summit, and found themselves in a position that wouldn't allow them to go up any further. They returned to C4 at 7200 meters (23,662 ft) where they hope to attempt the summit again tomorrow. 

According to reports from their support teams, the trio were able to climb at high as 8000 meters (26,246 ft) before having to turn back. Climbing in the dark, the team moved too far to the east, and completely missed the corridor that would have taken them to the summit, a mistake they don't intend to repeat when they make their second attempt tomorrow. Realizing their mistake too late, Alex, Daniele, and Muhammad decided to return to Camp 4 to rest and recuperate before so that they could try again tomorrow, when they'll use the same plan that they used today. The trio will set out at around 2 AM local time with the hopes of reaching the top during the morning hours. Setting out any earlier than that is impossible due to the incredibly cold temperatures. 

Weather conditions on the mountain are reportedly quite good at the moment, despite the extreme cold. The team climbed today under sunny skies with low winds. The forecast calls for much of the same tomorrow, which bodes well for their chances of successfully completing the climb. In fact, the squad feels like that if it weren't for the navigational error today, they would have topped out without much trouble. Hopefully the weather, and their physical conditioning, will hold out for one more day. 

Meanwhile, the fourth member of the team – Muhammad Kahn – is descending back to Base Camp. He had been with the group up until they reached Camp 3, but was unfortunately unable to go any higher. He should be back in BC today, where he will rest up and watch his teammates attempt to reach the summit. I'm sure that is a bittersweet feeling for a man who has been an important part of the efforts to climb Nanga Parbat thus far. 

After resting today, Alex, Daniele, and Muhammad Ali should be ready to make one more summit bid tomorrow. That means we could see history made this weekend. Stay tuned for updates on the team's progress, and the potential for the first winter ascent of Nanga. More to come soon. 

Winter Climbs 2015: Nanga Parbat Team Reaches Camp 3

The summit push continues today on Nanga Parbat where the four man team of Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi, Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Muhammad Kahn continue to move up the mountain. The squad has now reached Camp 3 located at 6700 meters (21,981 ft), but reaching that point was not easy as high winds had put the entire expedition in jeopardy. Fortunately, things seem to have calmed down now, and they are rapidly putting themselves into position to have a crack at the top, and possibly making history.

The team had intended to set out for C3 straight away this morning with the hopes that it would only take them a couple of hours to move up the mountain. But incredibly high winds (60-70 km/h - 38-42 mph) buffeted their tent all night, preventing them from getting sleep, and keeping them in place for a few extra hours. For a time, it looked like those winds would prevent them from going any further, but eventually they began to subside, and the foursome was able to move up from C2 to C3 in just five hours. They are resting there now as they begin to think about moving up to Camp 4 tomorrow, which will put them in position to go for the summit this weekend.

As you can imagine, the team is keeping a close eye on the weather forecast which now calls for cloudy conditions and precipitation, but much lower winds. Temperatures are expected to be very cold, although that is the norm on just about any 8000 meter peak in winter. The climbers are prepared for those conditions and are ready to push on towards the summit if they can. Moral continues to be high with the squad, but exhaustion is a real challenge at this point. The entire group has worked incredibly hard to reach Camp 3, but are determined to move on from here.

If everything stays on schedule, the team will reach C4 tomorrow where they'll assess the weather once again, and decide when to push on towards the top. It is possible that they could elect to take a rest day at Camp 4 to regain some strength for the final summit push, although that will likely be determined by the forecast. It may be that there simply won't be time for the luxury of day off, and they'll need to get up and back down as quickly as possible. If they do manage to summit, this will be the first ever winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, which would leave K2 as the only unclimbed 8000-meter peak in winter.

Stay tuned for updates. This summit bid has been the first legitimate attempt all season long, and it looks like it has a real chance of succeeding. We'll know more soon enough.

Winter Climbs 2015: Team in Camp 2 on Nanga Parbat, Summit Bid Continues

Things are going according to plan on Nanga Parbat, where the four remaining climbers are in the midst of a summit bid and have now reached Camp 2 at 6100 meters (20,013 ft). Yesterday, the team of Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi, Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Muhammad Kahn spent ten hours climbing up the most technical section of the ascent in order to reach the next camp. Now, they've put themselves in a position to possibly make history, although the weather has not quite improved the way they had hoped.

When they set off from Camp 1 yesterday the climbers first had to wade through deep snow on their way up the Kinshoffer Wall, a technically demanding climb that was made all the more difficult because the fixed ropes were buried under several meters of fresh snow. That made for tough going for the early stages of the climb, but as they went higher the amount of snow on the mountain lessened, and by the time they were approaching C2 there was just a few centimeters of powder on the ground. That bodes well for conditions higher up on the mountain, and lessens the chances of an avalanche, but as they arrived in Camp 2, they also saw an increase in the winds, which could be problematic moving forward.

The weather forecast has indicated that conditions should be improving over the next few days, with a good weather window developing into the weekend. Whether or not that proves accurate remains to be seen however, and considering this will be the team's final attempt at completing the first winter ascent of the mountain, a lot is riding on that forecast being accurate.

After spending the night in Camp 2, the plan is to proceed up to C3 today. The team's dispatches indicate that they are exhausted from their efforts, but that moral is high and they are as determined as ever to reach the summit. If the make it to C3 as expected, they'll then climb to C4 tomorrow, potentially take a rest day if the weather permits, and then go for the summit on the weekend. A lot of pieces need to fall into place before that happens however, and for now the squad is taking each day as it comes.

At 8126 meters (26,660 ft) in height, Nanga Parbat is just one of two 8000 meter peaks that have yet to be climbed in winter, with the other being K2. This season there were no less than five teams attempting to become the first climbers to complete that winter ascent, and of those, these four men are all that remain. It has been a very long, and difficult, winter on Nanga, and next week that season will draw to a close at long last. This team can hear the clock ticking on their efforts, and they know that this is their last chance to make history. We should know in another day or two if they are going to be able to complete the expedition, but until then it is a very tense time on a mountain that has a reputation for being incredibly difficult during just about any season.

Good luck to Alex, Daniele, and the two Muhammads as they enter the final stages of the expedition. Get up and down the mountain, and home safely.

Winter Climbs 2015: A Weather Window Opens on Nanga Parbat

It appears that the plan for a late-season summit push on Nanga Parbat may be paying off. Yesterday I reported that climbers Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi, Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Muhammad Kahn had launched an attempt to reach the top of the 8126 meter (26,660 ft) Himalayan giant, and while they were only in Camp 1 at the time, the hope was that the weather would turn in their favor and give them an opportunity to complete the first winter ascent of the mountain. Now, the forecast for the coming days has come in, and it appears that they'll get exactly the conditions they need to make a legitimate summit bid at last.

According to reports, a good period of weather should descend on the mountain beginning today and lasting for as much as five days. That includes clear skies, low winds, moderate temperatures, and no snow. This is a complete turn around over the weather the four climbers had been enduring for the past two weeks, and will be a welcome respite from the relentless weather conditions they have faced for much of the time that they have been on the mountain.

The plan had been for the team to attempt to push upwards to Camp 2 yesterday, but with the weather remaining poor, they decided to survey the route a bit, and then return to C1 for some much needed rest. On Sunday the four men spent 11 hours climbing up to Camp 1 at 5050 meters (16,568 ft), where they discovered their tents were buried under heavy snow. They spent another couple of hours rebuilding their campsite before they were finally able to drag themselves inside their shelters. This led to a much needed rest day yesterday that has allowed the squad to recharge their batteries and prepare for the next phase of the expedition.

Today the group hopes to move up to Camp 2 as the weather conditions continue to improve. If all goes well, they'll then go to C3 tomorrow and C4 on Thursday, which will set them up for a final push to the top on Friday or Saturday. The good weather is expected to last at least into the weekend, which means their success should hinge on how physically fit and strong they are feeling over the next few days, and whether or not the conditions along the route will allow them to proceed upwards. Heavy snow could still create avalanche dangers, which could still scrub the attempt as well.

This will be the teams final attempt on the summit. With the winter season running low, they no longer have the supplies, strength, or time to have another go. At this point it is either make history, or go home. Over the next few days, we should find out exactly which one it will be.

Winter Climbs 2015: A New Summit Push is Underway on Nanga Parbat

With the winter climbing season quickly coming to an end, the international team of climbers who have joined forces on Nagna Parbat have launched another summit bid. The four-man team launched what will likely be their final attempt to complete the first winter ascent of the mountain yesterday as the weather forecast calls for improvising conditions in the days ahead.

The team of Spanish climber Alex Txikon, Italian Daniele Nardi, and Pakistanis Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Muhammad Kahn set out from Base Camp yesterday afternoon on skis and snowshoes. A storm had dropped a foot of fresh snow the night before, which made the trail a difficult one. It took the squad approximately 10 hours of nonstop climbing to reach Camp 1 at 5050 meters (16,568 ft), where the exhausted team quickly collapsed in their tents for a nights rest.

Today they hope to press on to Camp 2. This section of the climb is one of the more challenging ones, and with so much snow on the route it promises to test the team once again. But the forecast says that they should see sunshine and clam winds, so hopefully that will help contribute to their success.

If all goes according to schedule, the team hopes to be in position to make a real attempt at the summit by the end of the week. At this point they'll need not only the weather to cooperate, but conditions on the upper sections of the mountain to stabilize as well. With so much fresh snow on the mountain the chances of avalanche increase dramatically, and that could be the biggest obstacle that they'll need to overcome in order to have a real chance at reaching the top.

The official end of winter comes in a little more than a week and a half. If the team is turned back on this summit push it would be unlikely that they would have enough time to regain their strength and make yet another attempt. They've put all of their efforts into this bid, and it is probably the best chance they have had since the season began. Whether or not Nanga Parbat will allow them to top out remains to be seen, but we could be about to witness history in the making.

Stay tuned for updates throughout the week.

Winter Climbs 2015: Resupply on Nanga Parbat Extends Expedition

It has been very long season on Nagna Parbat, where one team continues to struggle with the mountain in an attempt to complete the first winter ascent of that peak. An aborted summit attempt last weekend sent the three Iranian climbers that had been a part of the international expedition home, while Spanish climber Alex Txikon, Italian Daniele Nardi, and Pakistani's Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Muhammad Khan remain with the faint hope of getting another chance to summit. But time is running low, the window for success becomes narrower with each passing day.

A few days back the team ran out of some of the more important food staples including eggs, flour, and sugar. Kerosine for the generators is also starting to run low as well, but fortunately the team is expecting the weather to clear enough today for a group of porters to shuttle up a resupply to Base Camp. The squad has been stuck there all week with a steady downpour of snow bringing an accumulation of more than five feet (1.5 meters) over the past few days.

For now, the four climbers are content to see wait for Mother Nature to provide them with one last weather window before the official end of winter arrives on March 21. That is still more than two weeks away at this point, so the hope is that perhaps early next week conditions will improve enough for them to head back up. Considering how much snow has fallen in recent days however, they may find the trail above them to be nearly impassable. Climbing through such deep snow is exhausting work at any altitude, but on an 8000 meter peak it is excruciating. All of that snow will also lead to instability on the upper flanks of the peak, which means avalanches become a greater threat as well. When the weather does improve, the team will want to wait a few days just to let things stabilize before they proceed up.


Meanwhile, over in Nepal Simone Moro and Tamura Lunger have been officially evacuated from Manaslu. As I wrote in a post yesterday, the duo called for a helicopter pick-up after an avalanche nearly struck Base Camp. But I erroneously reported that the two climbers would be heading home to start thinking about projects for the spring climbing season instead. Stephen Nestler says that instead they will travel to the Khumbu Valley and continue to climb and acclimatize before returning to Manaslu in a few weeks time. Apparently their permit is good for 75 days, and they still hope to complete their goal of summiting the mountain via Manaslu East, a 7992 meter (26,220 ft) sub-summit that will eventually take them to the 8167 meter (26,794 ft) main peak.

That climb will now come in the spring however, after the weather conditions have improved, and the heavy snows on the mountain have had a chance to melt away. Until then, Simone and Tamara will continue to work on their conditioning in preparation for the re-launch of the expedition.

The winter season is quickly coming to an end now. I'll continue to monitor the situation on Nanga Parbat for any developments.

Winter Climbs 2015: Bad Weather Thwarts Summit Bid on Nanga Parbat

The more things change, the more they stay the same.

While I was off climbing the tallest mountain in Africa, the combined international team of Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi, and their Iranian and Pakistani companions have continued to work very hard on completing the first ever winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. Overt he weekend, the team launched a summit bid at last, but true to form, bad weather set in, forcing the entire squad to return to Base Camp, with at least a few of the climbers deciding to head home.

According to a report from ExWeb, the team abandoned their summit push on day two after finding the route was altered dramatically by a recent snowstorm that dumped plenty of powder on the mountain. The mountaineers were able to proceed above Camp 1 but discovered waist-deep snow and encountered several small avalanches, which convinced them it was time to turn back at 5300 meters (17,388 ft).

With unstable conditions prominent on Nanga Parbat at the moment, Alex and Daniele have decided to wait for another weather window before attempting a second summit push. Exactly when that attempt will begin remains a mystery at this time however.

Discretion being the better part of valor, the Iranian team consisting of Reza Bahadorani, Iraj Maani and Mahmood Hashemi have decided that Nanga is simply too unsafe to proceed this year. After surveying the intended route up the mountain, the trio have elected to pull the plug on their expedition and are now preparing to head home. With excessive amounts of snow and the growing threat of avalanche danger, they feel that it is simply too unsafe to proceed.

Meanwhile, over on Manaslu, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger are stuck in Base Camp as they wait for the weather to clear as well. They arrived on the mountain amidst good conditions a few weeks back, and were quickly able to establish Camp 1 at 5220 meters (17,125 ft), but since then the weather has taken a turn for the worse, preventing them from moving upwards. Heavy snows continue to fall on the mountain, making it very difficult to proceed.

For each of these winter climbs the click is now ticking. With the calendar now officially turned to March, there are just three more weeks of winter remaining. That is plenty of time to launch another summit bid on Nanga Parbat, but on Manaslu conditions are going to have to be exactly right for Simone and Tamara to have a crack at the top. Their late start has put them behind schedule, and now it seems unlikely that they'll get the chance to actually make a summit push. Of course, anything can happen, and three weeks is still plenty of time, but the weather will have to stabilize dramatically for them to have a true chance.

Stay tuned for more updates soon.

Winter Climbs 2015: Nanga Teams Retreat to BC, Moro Departs for Nepal

There is more news from Nanga Parbat today, where the combined international team of Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi, local climbers Muhammad Ali "Sadpara" and Muhammad Kahn, along with the Iranian squad, have retreated back to Base Camp after establishing Camp 3 on the mountain. The group had been working for five straight days to establish the route and shuttle gear, and are now ready to rest and regain some strength before heading up again.

According to reports, C3 was installed at 6700 meters (21,981 ft) where at least three of the climbers spent the night as part of their acclimatization. They then fixed ropes above that point, but were unable to reach Camp 4 before deciding it was time to descend. The entire squad is still working on acclimating to the altitude, with the exception of Nardi who has been on Nanga for more than a month now.

Dispatches indicate that Txikon and the other late arrivals are in need of some rest, so they'll spend at least a few days in BC now to let their bodies recover. The forecasts indicate that the weather should be good through the weekend, with storms arriving on the mountain on Sunday. That means that there is no weather window for the next few days, which will limit their efforts. In fact, the forecast calls for poor weather for most of next week, with possibly a meter of snow being dropped on the slopes of Nanga Parbat. For now, the teams will just have to wait to see if and when they'll get another chance.

Meanwhile, Italian climber Simone Moro is preparing to set out for Nepal. He'll leave tomorrow to begin his winter expedition in the Himalaya. He will be joined on the climb by talented alpinist Tamara Lunger, who summited K2 without oxygen this past summer.

The duo have set their sighs on the 8163 meter (26,781 ft) Manaslu, which they hope to link with Manaslu East, a peak that is an impressive 7992 meters (26,220 ft) in height. The hope is to complete the climb before the end of winter, which means they'll have roughly 35 days to top out. Both are said to have already been acclimatizing prior to their departure, with the plan of eventually making an alpine style attempt on the two summits once they have scouted the route.

Finally, there have been no updates yet from Andy Kirkpatrick, who had intended to set off for Denali to complete a solo summit of that mountain in February. The latest updates to the Brit's Facebook and Twitter pages indicate that he was heading off on an expedition, but there has been radio silence for the past eight days. Hopefully he is now in Alaska and prepping for the climb, but at this point it is unclear what his plans are.

That's all for today. It looks like things will be kind of quiet for the next few days at least as the weather on Nanga sorts itself out, and Simone and Tamara make their way to the mountain. We'll have more updates soon as the news warrants.

Winter Climbs 2015: Nanga Parbat Teams Unite at Last, Simone Moro Reveals Plans

There is more news from Nanga Parbat today, where the climbers have started to make some progress once again after being stalled out by the weather. Better yet, it seems that all of the remaining teams have now joined forces, and are working together to try to reach the summit for the first time in winter.

Earlier in the week, Italian climber Daniele Nardi had gone as high as 6100 meters (20,013 ft) on the Mummery Rib. He had hoped to solo that section of the climb and potentially make a summit bid. But unstable conditions on the mountain made it unsafe to continue up out of fear of avalanches. This forced Daniele to return to Base Camp to rethink his strategy, although he didn't stay there for long.

Apparently Daniele has decided to abandon his own plans and join the other teams that are currently on the mountain. In fact, he has already gone back up to Camp 2 with Spanish mountaineer Alex Txikon. They were joined by Pakistani climbers Muhammad Ali "Sadpara" and Muhammad Kahn, and together the team was able to establish Camp 2 on the Kinshofer Route at 6100 meters. The entire squad is hoping to continue up to Camp 3 today as they continue to fix ropes and shuttle gear.

Meanwhile, the Iranian team that is on the same route attempted to take a more direct route to C2 but were unable to complete that section of the climb. ExWeb reports that they were forced to turn back and ended up in Base Camp. Presumably they will attempt to go back up to C2 as well as they continue their acclimatization efforts.

This newly combined team is now as strong as any that we've seen on Nanga Parbat this year, and could potentially lead to the first winter ascent. We'll have to wait to see if they'll be able to work together to reach the top, but there is a great deal of experience and skill in place. There is no question that this group can summit, provided the weather cooperates and allows them to. Like the climbers themselves, we'll have to wait to see if that happens.

Finally, Italian climber Simone Moro has revealed his Himalayan climbing plans at last. After teasing us for the past couple of months, Moro has revealed that he and Tamara Lunger will be attempting to summit Manaslu. ExWeb says that more details will be forthcoming but the plan is to apparently link Manaslu East (7992 meter/26,220 ft) with the Main Summit at 8163 meters (26,781 ft). He is expected to hold a press conference today to share further details.

Winter Climbs 2015: Teams Back in BC, Simone Moro Set to Begin

All of the teams on Nanga Parbat are back in Base Camp today after spending time on the upper flanks of the mountain at the end of last week. The weather remains dicey at the moment, and the climbers are all taking advantage of the poor forecast to rest and recuperate before heading back up once again.

Alex Txikon and company returned to BC on Friday, and have been there all weekend. Before heading back down to rest, the team managed to go as high as Camp 2, where they shuttled gear and supplies, while also fixing ropes up the Diamir Face. Alex reports that as they went higher, the snow began to disappear and was replaced with blue ice instead. That, combined with more difficult terrain and the combined fatigue of climbing for several days, slowed progress. After dropping supplies in C2, they elected to descend to rest and let their bodies acclimatize further.

Alex is joined on his expedition by two local climbers – Muhammad Ali "Sadpara" and Muhammad Kahn. Their group has also joined forces with an Iranian squad consisting of Reza Bahadorani, Iraj Maani and Mahmood Hashemi. The combined team now expects to spend much of this week in Base Camp as they wait for a long enough weather window to climb up to Camp 3 or possibly go for the summit. Currently the forecast doesn't indicate that that will happen anytime soon, so they will try to wait patiently.

Meanwhile, ExWeb is reporting  that Italian climber Daniele Nardi has also retreated to Base Camp after attempting to climb up along the Mummery Rib. He had hoped to make a summit bid this weekend, but his home team reports that he has descended even though Daniele has not posted an update to his website just yet. Reportedly just 15 minutes after he set out from Camp 3 an avalanche struck the campsite, destroying his tent in the process. With no tent to provide shelter on his way up and down, Nardi wisely elected to head back down. Where his expedition stands at the moment remains to be seen.


In other news, Italian Simone Moro is preparing to leave for the Himalaya this week to launch his late winter climbing expedition. This news comes via Stefan Nestler's regular mountaineering and adventure sports news column. At this point, we still don't know what Simone has planned for the weeks ahead, and he says he prefers to keep it quiet for a few more days, at which time he'll finally reveal his project.

The very accomplished mountaineer also told Nestler that he had expected the Russian team of Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval to complete the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. Now that they have left the mountain for home, Moro says that he wouldn't rule out making another attempt at putting up that first ascent himself next winter, provided none of the remaining climbers are able to do it this year. Simone has attempted Nanga in the winter on two previous occasions, getting turned back each time. It is possible we could see him back there next winter.

That's all for now. We'll wait to see what Simone has planned in a few days time, and I'll continue to keep an eye on the teams on Nanga Parbat as well. For now though, it looks like they won't be going anywhere for at least a few days.

Winter Climbs 2015: Russians Depart Nanga Parbat, Daniele Preps For Summit Bid

There is more news to report from Nanga Parbat today, as the Russian squad that has been climbing the mountain has pulled the plug on their expedition. The team returned to Base Camp a few days ago after a summit bid stalled due to bad weather. The team began packing their gear and is now preparing to head home.

The news of the Russian team's departure came via a text message to the Russian Climb website. That message reads as follows:

"Today exactly 45th day as we left St. Petersburg, and, unfortunately, the time for our expedition runs to the end. The mountain is clear at last, for the first time in two weeks, but there're still snow flags on the top due to the strong wind. We pack BC and are going down."

Over the course of their month and a half on the mountain they were able to climb as high as 7150 meters (23,458 ft) before being turned back due to high winds. Since descending they have reported continued bad weather, although things are expected to gradually improve in the days ahead. Unfortunately for the four-man squad of  Nickolay Totmjanin, Serguey Kondrashkin, Valery Shamalo and Victor Koval, time has run out and they must now return home. 

Meanwhile, over on the Daimir Face, Alex Txikon and company have found it tough going on their way up to Camp 2. They have struggled to make progress in a speedy fashion due to deep snow along the route. The men had hoped to reach C2 yesterday, but unfortunately they came up just a bit short. The squad, which also consists of local climbers Muhammad Ali "Sadpara" and Muhammad Kahn, as well as a trio of Iranians (Reza Bahadorani, Iraj Maani and Mahmood Hashemi), had reached 5800 meters (19,028 ft) along the Kinshofer Route before having to call it a day. They hope to establish Camp 2 at 5900 meters (19,356 ft) today and possibly continue up to Camp 3 depending on conditions. 

Italian climber Daniele Nardi is going it alone on the Mummery Rib. According to his latest dispatch he reached Camp 3 at 5600 meters (18,372 ft) yesterday and will attempt to continue up the route today. The forecast indicates good weather for the next two days, with a bit of snow on the weekend. If those conditions hold, Daniele hopes to be in position to make a summit bid on Sunday. 

Finally, shifting gears to the spring climbing season ahead, Spanish mountaineer Carlos Soria has announced his plans for the Himalaya, and they are ambitious ones. The 76-year old climber doesn't appear to be slowing down any, as he now plans to climb both Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in a few months time. In fact, he intends to leave for Nepal next week, and will spend his time trekking throughout the country to begin his acclimatization well ahead of the start of the climbing season. He then says that he and his team will go to Annapurna early on to scout the mountain well ahead of time. Later he will proceed to Dhaula to continue his quest to summit all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks. 

Good luck to Carlos in this endeavor. He remains an inspiration to us all. 

Winter Climbs 2015: Teams in Camp 2 on Diamir Face

The weather has relented some on Nanga Parbat, allowing the teams on the Diamir Face to move up at last. While high winds and heavy snow had been keeping them in Base Camp in recent days, it seems that conditions have improved on the mountain, allowing them to move forward. But temperatures are said to be brutally cold, holding at a constant -20ºC/-4ºF in BC, and much lower further up the slope. A possible weather window is expected to open now, but it remains to be seen if anyone can take much advantage of it.

Italian climber Daniele Nardi is the one person who may be ready to launch a summit bid if the weather holds. He's been on the mountain the longest at this point and seems acclimatized enough to make a solo attempt on the top. According to his latest dispatches he is now in Camp 2 at 5200 meters (17,060 ft). When he arrived there, he found his tent and other gear buried under heavy snow, and according to his home team, he spent several hours just digging everything out and reestablishing   his campsite. He'll rest there tonight before hopefully moving up to ascend the Mummery Spur.

Also on the move are the combined teams of Alex Txikon – along with his partners Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Muhammad Kahn – and the Iranian squad consisting of Mahmood Hashemi, Iraj Maani, and Reza Bahadorani. The two groups are the late comers to Nanga Parbat, and it seems they have joined forces to a degree. The climbers have moved up to their Camp 2 site, which is found at 5900 meters (19,356 ft). They are hoping to establish C3 at 6700 meters (21,981 ft) before descending back to Base Camp, and the current plan is to sleep in C1 tonight and C2 tomorrow as part of the acclimatization process.


As reported yesterday, the Russian squad on the Rupal Face is back in BC where they are resting and regrouping. They will be keeping a watchful eye on the weather as well, and weighing their options for making another summit bid. This past weekend they had climbed to as high as 7150 meters (23,458 ft) and were waiting to make a summit bid, but high winds forced them to retreat. It is unclear if they'll have another go at the mountain, but it does seem very early in the season for them to pack it in.

All of the climbers are attempting complete the first winter ascent of the 8126 meter (26,660 ft) mountain. Traditional, the weather on Nanga has been incredibly bad in February, so all of the squad are looking to take advantage of any break they can get. Of course, "good" weather is a relative term this time of year, as hurricane force winds, subzero temperatures, and heavy snow are not uncommon there at all. Hopefully they'll get the weather window they need to at least take a shot at the summit, but for now we'll all just have to wait and watch to see what happens.

Winter Climbs 2015: Summit Bid Over on Nanga Parbat

The summit bid for the Russian team of Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval is over on Nanga Parbat. The four men had hoped to move up towards the summit starting yesterday, but persistently bad winds has kept them from going above Camp 4 at 7150 meters (23,458 ft). The entire team has now returned to Base Camp where they will rest, regroup, and consider their next options.

The news of the aborted summit attempt came via Russian Climb, which received a text message that said: "We managed to return to BC through the bad weather. All are safe and sound. Nothing real on the route in such wind. You can fly to K2 at once" The last sentence is a tongue-in-cheek reference to the high winds, which would blow a climber all the way to K2 if they aren't careful.

The team has now been on the mountain since late December, and have been working the route ever since. While acclimatizing to the altitude they managed to build and stock four camps up the Rupal Face, and had returned to their high camp with the hope of completing the first winter ascent of the mountain. Unfortunately the weather has not been very cooperative in the past week, and they've been waiting for several days to move up.

The weather forecast calls for high winds for the next several days, so they'll have to wait in BC to see if another window opens. Hopefully they can recharge their batteries for another go, but conditions are harsh on the mountain at the moment. In addition to hurricane force winds at higher altitudes, there has also been plenty of snow and very cold temperatures too. That has taken its toll on the men, but perhaps they aren't quite done yet.


Meanwhile, updates from Italian climber Daniele Nardi have been few and far between in recent days. The last we knew he was in BC on the Diamir Face and was waiting out the poor weather as well. But an update sent via Twitter a few days back indicates that he has returned to the Mummery Spur to continue working his planned route. How much progress he has made, and under what conditions, remains unclear at this time. Hopefully we'll get further updates soon.

Similarly, there has been no word from Alex Txikon either. We know he arrived in BC in the last week in January, and has been stranded there due to the poor conditions too. If the weather has improved however, we can expect that he has started to acclimatize as well, and has moved up the Diamir Face, possibly to C1 or C2. But without any updates, this is just pure speculation. We'll just have to be patient and wait for news.

It is beginning to look like Nanga Parbat may turn back all of the teams once again this winter. There is still plenty of time left to go of course, but the weather has certainly deteriorated significantly in recent weeks, and the forecast doesn't look great for the next nine days. Still, two teams have only just arrived in Base Camp, so they are well rested, have plenty of supplies, and are determined. Perhaps their plan is to wait out the worst of the weather and make a dash for the summit in March before winter officially ends. Stay tuned to find out more.

Winter Climbs 2015: Russians in Camp 4 on Nanga Parbat

Last week I posted that the Russian team of Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval has launched a summit bid on Nanga Parbat, although it was unclear then where exactly they were on the mountain. Over the weekend we received new updates, courtesy of Russian Climb, that indicate that the men are now in Camp 4 and are waiting out a bad storm with the hope of pushing towards the top in the next few days.

According to their most recent updates, the team is sitting in C4 at 7150 meters (23,458 ft), which puts them about 975 meters (4000 ft) below the summit. That final push to the top will be a tough one even in good weather, but the latest dispatches also indicate that they are currently experiencing 100 km/h (62 mph) winds, along with a roaring blizzard and extreme cold. Those conditions are expect to persist through Tuesday, with a period of relative calm arriving shortly there after. Forecasts indicate that the winds will then drop to about 50 km/h (31 mph), which will still make things challenging. Visibility is also said to be almost zero at the moment as well, although that will certainly improve to a degree if the winds drop as expected.

If the weather does indeed improve over the next few days, the Russians could attempt to reach the summit later this week. They'll have to hurry though, as ExWeb indicates that the chances of success on Nanga go down after the first week of February due to a general deterioration of the weather and the onset of fatigue. Almost every previous winter expedition to the mountain had abandoned their attempts by the start of March, and 85% of those attempts reached their high point by February 10.

Over on the Diamir Face, the three teams that are attempting that route are all currently holding in Base Camp. Conditions are not any better on that side of the mountain, and the recent arrival of the Iranian squad, as well as Alex Txikon, means that they are just getting themselves established on the mountain. As the weather improves, those teams will start their acclimatization efforts.

Meanwhile, Italian climber Daniele Nardi is ready to go up, but is currently waiting for the winds to die down and the snow to settle. Apparently there is a high probability of avalanches at the moment, and until the recent snowfall settles it is too dangerous to proceed.

For now, it looks like the Russians are the team that is in the best position to complete the first winter ascent of Nanga. We'll just have to wait to see if they get the weather window they need to proceed up. Stay tuned for further updates soon.

Winter Climbs 2015: Summit Push Begins on Nanga Parbat

The last time we checked in on the teams on Nanga Parbat they were hunkered down in Base Camp waiting out poor weather. Reportedly high winds, heavy snow, and extremely cold temperatures had fallen on mountain, and there was nothing they could do but wait for a weather window. Apparently conditions have started to change, as the Russian squad on the Rupal Face has now launched a summit bid.

According to Russian climb the team of Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval sent an SMS message sent earlier in the day indicating that they have started to go back up the mountain. The message was short, and to the point, simply saying "We begin to climb up." That text message follows one sent yesterday that indicated that the team had re-opened the route  the route from 3600 meters (11,811 ft) to 4600 meters (15,091 ft). That section of the climb was no doubt choked with snow from the recent storms.

Previously we knew that the Russians had established a series of camps up to 7100 meters (23,293 ft). That would put them within striking distance of the 8126 meter (26,660 ft) summit, although there is still a great deal of altitude to be gained in that push. If they hope to put up the first winter ascent of Nanga, it will still require a herculean effort on their part, no to mention a prolonged break in the weather.

You may recall that earlier in the season Polish climber Tomek Mankiewicz and his climbing partner Elisabeth Revol from France, were able to reach 7800 meters (25,590 ft) but were turned back du to high winds. We'll just have to wait to see if the Russians have more success.

Meanwhile, reports indicate that Spanish climber Alex Txikon has reached Base Camp on the Diamir side of the mountain. He arrived there a few days back, and like everyone else he is waiting for the weather to clear. He has established his campsite and is preparing to head up the mountain – along with climbing partners Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Muhammad Kahn. No word yet on when they'll begin their acclimatization rotations, but I'd expect that to start happening soon.

Finally, there has been no recent updates from Italian climber Daniele Nardi, who is probably in BC at the moment as well. He has completed his acclimatization rotations and should soon be ready for a summit bid of his own. Hopefully the weather will cooperate and he can launch his bold solo attempt.

That's all for now. I'll post more news as warranted.

Winter Climbs 2015: No Progress on Nanga Parbat

Poor weather has arrived on Nanga Parbat, stalling out climbing efforts on that mountain, where no less than four teams will be trying to complete the first winter ascent. The notoriously difficult peak has already sent one team home this year, and now it is looking to repel all-comers once again. But there is a little less than two months to go in the season, and teams aren't ready to give up just yet.

We'll start with an update on the team that has departed Base Camp. Polish climber Tomek Mankiewicz is now in the town of Gilgit where he is receiving treatment for an injured leg and broken ribs that he suffered as a result of a fall down a crevasse while making his descent following a summit push. He also has severe frostbite in his toes, which may need to be amputated. He will likely spend a few more days there before he starts his journey home. 

Meanwhile, Tomek's climbing part Elisabeth Revol is already back home in France. There was a bit of confusion in the report about her departure last week, as it wasn't clear if she had left BC for home or had gone back up the mountain to try another summit push. It is now more than clear that she has returned home, doing so without even saying goodbye to the other teams in Base Camp. In a post-climb interview with ExWeb Elisabeth says that she now believes that the mountain is unclimbable for the winter, as poor wether has set in. She and Tomek spent 10 days trying to reach the top and were turned back. With that weather window now closed, she feels that there won't be another one for this winter, which is why she decided to leave.  

Italian climber Danielle Nardi remains in Base Camp on the Diamir Face and is waiting for the weather to clear so he can go back up the mountain. With his acclimatization now complete, he is also ready to stock his high camp with supplies and potentially press on towards the summit. But it has been snowing for several days now, and hurricane-force winds have arrived on the mountain, making it impossible for anyone to climb at the moment. Everyone is stuck in BC and waiting for a weather window to open. 

Over on the Rupal Face, the Russian team of Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval have not updated their progress for a few days. The last we heard, they had climbed up to 7100 meters (23,293 ft) as they established camps up the side of the mountain. Presumably they are back in BC as well and waiting for their opportunity too. 

Finally, two new teams are set to arrive on the Diamir side soon. Alex Txikon, along with two local climbers – Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Muhammad Kahn – should reach Base Camp within the next few days, while the Iranian squad of Reza Bahadorani, Iraj Maani and Mahmood Hashemi are a few days further back. They'll arrive on a mountain that is now displaying the full challenges of climbing during the winter season, and it won't be a warm greeting. 

Video: Winter Climbing on Nanga Parbat

As I write this, there are no less than four teams on Nanga Parbat who are attempting to complete the first winter ascent of that mountain. If you've been following their progress over the past few weeks, and have wondered what life is like in the Karakoram in the winter, then have a look at this video. It was shot on 2012-2013 winter expedition tot he mountain, and it will give you a good idea of hat conditions are like there, as well as what it is like to live in Base Camp for days at a time. The music in this clip is a bit much for my tastes, but the images are amazing.