Mudslides Claim 30 Lives in Nepal

The monsoon season has brought yet another tragedy to the beleaguered people of Nepal. Yesterday, heavy rains caused massive mudslides near Pokhara, which caused damage to numerous villages and claimed the lives of at least 30 people. 

Sadly enough, the mudslides mainly occurred in the Annapurna region of the country, where the popular Annapurna Circuit was just reopened for visitors. Fortunately, the summer monsoon season is not a popular one for foreign visitors, and few travelers are on the trail at this time. Still, the last thing Nepal needed at the moment was the loss of more life due to a natural disaster. 

It has been a very difficult year and a half in the Himalayan country. In 2014, the climbing season on Everest was halted after an avalanche claimed the lives of 16 workers on the mountain, which at the time was the single deadliest day in the mountain's history. Then, last fall, a freak blizzard descended on the mountains, killing more than 40 trekkers and stranding hundreds of others. That was followed up by the deadly April 25 earthquake – and its aftershocks – that took place this past spring, killing nearly 9000 people in the process. That disaster triggered another avalanche at Everest Base Camp which killed an additional 19 people there. These tragic mudslides are now just extending the misery even further. 

According to the article linked to above, search and rescue teams are combing through the mud today in search of survivors and bodies. But their work is being hampered by the fact that they don't have any power tools to help speed things along. Instead they are forced to use shovels and even dinner bowls in their efforts. For a country that is already stretch thin in terms of resources, this type of challenge was the last thing it needed. 

One has to wonder at what point the Nepali people have suffered enough. It has been a trying 15 months or so, and it doesn't seem like things are going to get better anytime soon. There is still a lot of damage that needs to be repaired from the earthquake, which will take years to completely overcome. Hopefully the embattled nation will catch a break at some point, and can start to get on with the process of getting back to normal life. 

Nepal Reopens Annapurna Circuit

One of the best trekking routes in the world has reopened in Nepal after being closed for the past three months following the devastating earthquake on April 25. Earlier today it was announced that the Annapurna Circuit is ready to receive hikers once again after an independent inspection team certified it safe for foreign visitors.

In the wake of the disaster, the Nepali government hired a California-based structural engineering company called  Miyamoto International to survey the Annapurna trail, as well as villages, tea houses, and other structures along its length. After an exhaustive study, the firm says that it found that less than 1% of the route, and 3% of the teahouses, had suffered any damage from the earthquake.

The news shouldn't come as much of a surprise, although it is good to know that the Annapurna Circuit is safe. The initial earthquake took place in the Kathmandu Valley, destroying homes, historical sites, and sometimes whole villages in the process. But the epicenter was far from the Annapurna region, which obviously suffered very little from the natural disaster.

A major aftershock hit Nepal just a few days after the April 25 quake. That one had its epicenter in the Khumbu Valley region, which is closer to Everest. Miyamoto is still surveying the trail to Everest Base Camp – the other popular trekking route in Nepal – and will release its results on that inspection soon. It is expected that the damage will be greater in that area, but that the trekking route will be reopened as well.

Nepal sees about 140,000 visitors each year just to hike these two routes. As the country struggles to rebuild, you can understand why it would want to reassure travelers that these areas are safe. Tourism dollars will play a big role in getting the country back on its feet, and this is a good step in rebuilding that industry. With the fall trekking season now just a couple of months away, it will be interesting to see how many people return, and how many stay away.

Video: Climbing Annapurna Spring 2015

Alexander Barber spent the spring climbing season on Annapurna in Nepal, attempting a solo summit without the use of supplemental oxygen. He was able to reach as high as 7000 meters (22,965 ft) before the April 25 earthquake changed everything. This video chronicles his early efforts to climb that very difficult mountain, and his experiences with assisting in the rebuilding and recovery process following the disaster. This is a personal account of a lost climbing season in the Himalaya, and the aftermath of a devastating earthquake.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Puja Ceremonies and a Collapse in the Icefall

There as been another setback on Everest that is keeping the climbers in Base Camp today, despite the need to start their acclimatization rotations soon. Earlier in the week it was bad weather that prevented them from getting on the move, but now it is a collapse in the Khumbu Icefall that has delayed the start of the first rotations up the mountain.

Alan Arnette reports that more than 80 Sherpas were in the Icefall this morning as they continued their work to shuttle gear up to Camps 1 and 2. But the collapse of the ice along the route caused all of them to turn back. Apparently there was a traverse over a large crevasse that required four ladders to complete, and the entire thing came crumbling down. The Khumbu Ice Doctors will now have to search for an alternate route through the dangerous Icefall. Fortunately, no one was hurt in the collapse.

This is not uncommon, and is large part of why crossing through the Icefall is so dangerous. This portion of the mountain is incredibly unsteady, and the Ice Docs work all season long to keep the route safe and open. This sounds like it was a major collapse however, so it could take a day or two for them to find a new path. You may recall that this route was described as safer and shorter than the ones used in the past, and hopefully that won't change following this incident.

Alan also says that his team had its Puja ceremony a few days back. The Puja is an important step for any climbing expedition, as no one can start up the mountain until it is finished. During the Puja, a Buddhist monk brings the climbers and Sherpas together to ask permission from the mountain gods to safely pass up Everest, or what ever other mountain they are climbing. Traditionally, the monk will also bless their gear and ask the gods to keep the climbers safe. While it is taken very seriously by everyone, it is also a time to celebrate and have too.


With the Puja over, the teams are then ready to start the climb, but the unusually heavy snowfall continued on Everest over the past couple of days, preventing anyone from going higher than Base Camp. None of the commercial teams have passed through the Icefall as of yet, and no one other than the Sherpas have been up to Camp 1 or 2. Hopefully that will change shortly, as it is now time to begin acclimatizing for sure. In fact, some of the squads have actually gone off to other mountains to begin their acclimatization process. For instance, American climber Jim Davidson has moved over to Lobuche East where he'll go as high as 6118 meters (20,075 ft) on the summit. He hopes to wrap up that climb today, and head back to Everest BC.

Over on Annapurna, the teams continue to play the waiting game. The weather has remained bad there too, not allowing teams to make their summit pushes. Heavy snows have blanketed the upper slopes of the mountain in powder, making it extremely unsafe. Avalanches are common on Annapurna even in the best of conditions, but with so much snow falling on the mountain, breaking trail is incredibly difficult, and the risks of avalanche too high. For now, everyone must bide their time, and wait for things to improve.

ExWeb has posted a round-up of news from other 8000 meter peaks, and much of the news is the same. Poor weather continues across the Himalaya, including on Manaslu where Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger had hoped to make a spring attempt after their winter climb was thwarted. According to reports, the duo returned to the mountain in early April only to discover that more snow had fallen in their absence and they couldn't even locate their cached gear under all of the powder. They elected to pull the plug on the expedition altogether, and have now returned home.

The same story is being reported on Shishapangma, Cho Oyu, and Dhaulagiri, where ExWeb says a team of trekkers ran into serious trouble a few days back. Heavy snows caught the unprepared team off guard, and they were forced to take shelter in Base Camp where a climbing team offered them assistance. Apparently, whiteout conditions continue there now, making it very difficult for anyone to go anywhere.

Finally, tomorrow marks the one year anniversary since the massive avalanche claimed the lives of 16 porters on Everest. I'm sure it will be a solemn occasion on the mountain as the Sherpas and western climbers all think about that day. Many of the people on the mountain this spring were there last year too, so I expect there will be some memorial services and ceremonies held. I have no doubt that those who lost their lives will be on the minds of the climbers the next few days.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Teams Arriving in Everest Base Camp, Summit Bids Delayed on Annapurna

The spring climbing season in the Himalaya is about to get a whole lot more interesting. As expected, teams began arriving in Everest Base Camp over the weekend, and while they'll take a day or two to get settled, it won't be long before they start heading up the mountain itself, or visiting nearby peaks to launch acclimatization and training rotations on other mountains. For some, the skills training has already begun, with a number of units entering the Khumbu Icefall to work on their rope skills. Others are just now arriving, but will begin the real work soon.

Amongst those expected to arrive in EBC today are Alan Arnette. He checked in from Gorak Shep – the last stop before reaching the mountain – yesterday, and shared plenty of interesting news from the Khumbu. For instance, Alan has learned that there are roughly 319 individual climbers who have received permits to climb Everest this year. With a few more teams yet to check in, that puts the numbers on par with last year. That means that the tragedy from last season, and the ensuing shutdown of climbing operations, hasn't dissuaded anyone from coming to the mountain. Of those, 109 have returned from last year, with the Nepali government honoring their permits from 2014. Also, Alan says that there are an additional 96 climbers on Lhotse as well.

Perhaps more of interest is the changing dynamic of the teams on the mountain. Traditionally, squads led by western guide services bring about 8-12 clients to Everest, but there are now Nepali owned companies who have as many as 60 people in their groups. This is, of course, an economics of scale move, allowing them to bring the price of the climb down through larger numbers. One has to wonder however if they are sacrificing safety in the process.


Even more dismaying is that Alan reports that he has yet to see any evidence of the changes that the Nepali government promised in the wake of the two disasters last year – the avalanche on Everest that claimed the lives of 16 porters, and the massive blizzard that killed 45+ trekkers last fall. After those two incidences the government promised better weather forecasting, improved communications, GPS tracking systems, and an increased presence of medical and liaison offers with the teams. In Alan's own words, these improvements have yet to materialize, making me wonder if they are just more empty promises meant to assuage the fears of potential visitors and the media that covers these events.

Alan also reports that the Khumbu Valley seems to be changing as well. He says that the staff in the teahouses don't seem as cordial as they have been in the past, and prices for food, drinks, and lodging have gone up significantly. He also says that the teahouses are more full than ever, making the common rooms far busier and more noisy in the past. That's good for business in the region of course, but it also is changing the experience of trekking to EBC too.

All of that said, once the climbing teams reach Base Camp, they'll start to focus more on the business of climbing. Soon, these reports will turn more towards status updates as they work their way up the mountain, focus on getting acclimatized, and eventually launch summit bids. That is still several weeks off however, and for now it's all about getting settled into what will be their home for the next month or so.

Meanwhile, over on Annapurna, the summit bids that were expected to begin over the weekend have been cancelled. On Friday, the weather forecasts looked very promising for the days ahead, but that changed dramatically over the weekend. Now, large storms are moving into the area, and are expected to bring as much as 5 feet (1.5 meters) of snow along with them. That will prevent anyone from going anywhere near the top, and could increase the danger of avalanches in the days ahead. So, for now, Carlos Soria, Chris Jensen Burke, and others sit in BC and wait for that ever elusive opportunity to go up.

That is all for today. I'll report more as the news warrants it. For now, most of the teams are still getting settled in Everest Base Camp, but expect the first forays through the Icefall – along the new route new less – to begin in just a few days time. Things will start to get much busier now, and the real climbing is about to begin.

Himalaya Spring 2015: A Train Tunnel Under Everest, News From Annapurna, and More

The climbing teams continue to make their way to Everest Base Camp, with some large groups expected to arrive there this weekend. As we wait for them to get settled, and begin their first training sessions and acclimatization rotations, there is still plenty of things to report on, including some mountaineering stories that are making a splash with the mainstream media.

One of the more spectacular stories to hit the newswire over the past few days is this one  from The Guardian reporting that China has proposed building a train tunnel running through Everest. The tunnel would expand China's already impressive railway network into Nepal, and possibly would eventually link it to India. According to the article, engineers and builders would have to run some very long tunnels through the Himalaya, including one that would pass through Everest itself. The project could be completed as early as 2020.

When I read this story I had to check to make sure it wasn't dated April 1. This seems so outlandish that I didn't think there was anyway it could be real. Not only would this be an engineering project of epic proportions, it would bring a new level of disruption to the Himalaya that would alter the landscape there forever. While a new rail line would probably be good for business in Nepal and this part of the world in general, I'm hoping they'll find an alternate route to run it through. Only time will tell if this story will actually become reality, but I sure hope it doesn't impact the mountain too much.

Elsewhere, National Geographic Adventure has posted a story about climber Matt Moniz. The 17-year old climber is back in the Himalaya this spring where he's attempting an 8000-meter double-header by climbing both Everest and Lhotse. He also hopes to make the first ski descent of the Lhotse Coulorr while he's at it. Ambitious plans for the spring for sure. In the article, Matt talks about his attempt at a different double-header, climbing both Cho Oyu in Tibet and than Everest. Of course, the attempt on Everest was scuttled due to the tragic avalanche there, but Matt made the best out of the situation, climbing Makalu instead. This year, he hopes to find more success on the world's tallest mountain.


The Himalayan Times has posted an article that shares details of the accident on Annapurna from a few weeks back that claimed the lives of Samuli Mansikka and Pemba Sherpa. The story calls the accident "a careless accident" saying that Samuli was not clipped into the ropes as the group made their descent following a successful summit. In the dark they lost their way, and climber wandered off on his own to search for the route down. He apparently took a misstep and fell 400 meters into a crevasse. Pemba's accident was actually a separate one, as he was descending on his own as well, and by coincidence ended up in the same exact crevasse.

Both men got a little careless on the descent and over confident in their skills. Climbing alone is rarely a good idea, and can result in tragedies such as this one. It is a sad story for both Samuli and Pemba's families for sure, but a good reminder to the rest of us to be safe and maintain the fundamentals while climbing in the mountains.

Speaking of Annapurna, it seems that the weather is finally taking a turn for the better. Carlos Soria hopes to launch his summit bid this weekend, setting off for the top on Sunday. Presumably, Aussie climber Chris Jensen Burke will also have a go at the summit as well, as she has been waiting for more than a week for conditions to improve too. Hopefully we'll have more information about their plans next week, as the forecast calls for improving conditions in the days ahead.

Similarly, solo climber Alex Barber is planning to head up this weekend as well with an eye on reaching Camp 3 as part of his acclimatization process. He is currently recovering from a bout of food poisoning, but is finally regaining his strength now. He will set off on Sunday to, going directly up to C2 where his gear is cached. He'll then climb to C3 on Monday, although he indicates that the route is filled with deep snow at the moment.

That's all from the Himalaya today. More news to come next week.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Dozens of Climbers Taking Ill in the Khumbu

The 2015 spring climbing season in the Himalaya is off to an inauspicious start. Not only has the weather been dicey for much of the early going, but now we have reports that an unusually high number of climbers are taking ill on the trek to Everest Base Camp alone. While that trek does involve some altitude, it is nothing like what they will face when they reach the mountain themselves, begging the question as to why so many have already started suffering altitude sickness even as the walk the Khumbu Valley.

According to an article in the Himalayan Times more than 150 mountaineers have already received treatment for altitude sickness – including both pulmonary and cerebral edema – at EBC and in Pheriche, one of the lower villages found along the trek. A hospital is set up in that town strictly to deal with altitude sickness problems, and it seems it has seen a steady stream of visitors already this spring. In fact, an average of 15 people per day have been receiving treatment, making it a busy start to the season so far. Worse yet, an additional 15 people – including 11 foreign climbers – have had to be evacuated to Kathmandu for medical treatment.

It is not uncommon for trekkers to experience some symptoms of altitude problems while trekking in the Khumbu Valley, but these are unusually high numbers for so early in the spring. Acute Mountain Sickness is not something to be taken lightly, so when climbers begin showing signs, it is usually treated immediately, or they are sent to lower altitudes to aid with recovery. What stands out for me in this story is the surprisingly high number of people who are getting sick this season, which could be cause for concern when the teams begin going up the mountain. Typically the altitudes found int he Khumbu are not particularly challenging for someone who is hoping to climb the highest mountain on the planet, but it doesn't bode well for their success when they are having issues so early on. Lets hope that this doesn't persist, and the climbers can still get a crack at the mountain.


The Himalayan Times article also notes that there have been 30 permits issued to teams to climb the Everest from the South Side this year, and that 25 teams have already established camp in BC. Most of the climbers are still en route to the mountain however, with porters, Sherpa guides, and the support staff mostly already in place. Expect the western climbers to begin arriving steadily over the next few days.

Meanwhile, over on Annapurna the teams continue to patiently wait for the weather to improve. They got a nasty reminder of just what this mountain is capable of on Monday when an avalanche slid down the slopes and crashed into Camp 1. At the time, there were only two climbers at that point on the mountain, and they were thankfully unharmed. But the avalanche did destroy most of the camp, forcing the teams to dig out their tents and rebuild their campsites.

The weather forecasts indicate improved conditions over the next few days, but it remains to be seen if the weather window will be wide enough to allow climbers like Carlos Soria and Chris Jensen Burke to make a dash for the top. In addition to the poor weather, they will also have to watch for more avalanche activity, something that is a persistent problem on Annapurna.

That's the update from the Himalaya for today. It seems that most of the climbers are still pressing towards Everest and are taking their time on the trek. Soon they'll begin streaming into Base Camp however, and the real climbing activities will begin. Patience is the word of the day, but things will start getting very active by early next week.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Teams on the Move

The poor weather that was preventing the climbers in Nepal from departing Kathmandu has dissipated over the past few days, and numerous teams are now on the move in the Khumbu Valley. Many are now making the long hike to Everest Base Camp, which actually marks the beginning of their acclimatization process for the climb to come. The trek takes roughly 8-10 days to complete, but is an important step for getting both physically and mentally prepared for the challenges ahead. Along the way they pass through numerous small villages filled with wonderful, inviting, people as they walk in the shadow of some of the most beautiful mountains on the planet. It is a truly memorable hike for those heading to Lhotse or the South Side of Everest.

Among those currently on the trail is Alan Arnette, who checked in from Namche Bazaar over the weekend. Namche is the largest town in the Khumbu, and one of the first milestones achieved on the trek. It is reached after just two days of hiking, but requires a tough slog up a steep hill to actually get to the village. Most trekkers and climbers take a rest day in Namche after they reach that point in order to let their bodies get use to the altitude. It is also one of the last places to purchase a piece of gear that you may have forgotten, or enjoy a few other amenities. The villages that follow are increasingly smaller, and have fewer shops and restaurants.

One of the familiar sounds of the Khumbu is the frequent ringing of bells that hang around the necks of the yaks that are used to carry gear, food, and other supplies to the various towns and camps that dot the landscape there. Anyone who has ever hiked through Nepal will recognize the distinctive sound immediately, and know that a yak train is coming through so they had better get off the trail. Yaks are indispensable in this part of the world, and are about as common on the trail as hikers. Watching them carry their heavy loads – at altitude – with ease is fascinating.


Also now on the move in the Khumbu Valley is the Altitude Junkies team. They reached Namche on Saturday and spent the traditional rest day there yesterday. They'll get back on the trail today as they head for Dingboche, the next popular stop on the hike. If they continue on schedule, the AJ squad should reach Base Camp sometime next weekend.

Meanwhile, Madison Mountaineering is sharing the first look at the new route through the Khumbu Icefall. In order to avoid some of the dangers that the porters faced last year – and which contributed to the avalanche that claimed 16 lives – the Icefall Doctors have pioneered a new route through this very dangerous section of the climb. The route now stays further to the right than what has been taken in the past, veering towards Nuptse. The hope is that this section of the climb will be much safer, and get the climbers through this treacherous section as quickly as possible.

Over on Annapurna the teams are still waiting for conditions to improve before they head up. But solo-climber Alex Barber has been working on his acclimatization in preparation for a summit bid down the line. After arriving in BC last week, he has now gone as high as Camp 2, and spent the night there, as he lets his body get use to the altitude. Over the weekend Alex returned to Base Camp however, where he is now waiting for conditions to improve before going back up once again.

Spanish climber Carlos Soria is hoping to launch his summit bid soon, and reports that the upper slopes of Annapurna are clear of snow at the moment. That bodes well for the climbers who are waiting for the weather to improve. Once a weather window opens, they can then proceed up with less fears of avalanches, something that the mountain is well known for this time of year.

Even though the season is now underway, most climbers are still en route to their respective Base Camps. For the most part, the climbing portion of their expeditions won't get underway for another week or so, but this is all part of the process, and crucial to their preparation. Things will really start to get exciting soon, but for now it is a slow and steady walk through one of the most spectacular regions of the world.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Indian Army To Clear Trash From Everest

One of the major stories surrounding Everest that seems to rear its ugly head each spring is how the mountain has become a massive trash heap over the past two decades. While it is true that commercial climbing on the world's tallest mountain has had an adverse effect on the environment there, in recent years there has been a concerted effort to reverse that trend and to focus on cleaning up the mountain. Those efforts will continue this year with teams now required to carry out all of their trash, while others focus solely on removing waste that has been left on Everest from past expeditions.

According to a report from Time magazine, a team of 34 climbers from India will travel to Nepal this spring to celebrate the 50th anniversary of that country's first successful expedition to the summit of Everest. But rather than focusing on trying to reach the top, they'll have an entirely different goal in mind. The group – which are all members of the Indian Army – will be looking to remove more than 4000 kg (8800 pounds) of non-biodegradable trash from the mountain.

Team leader Ranveer Singh Jamval says that their efforts are to not to just clean up the tallest mountain on the planet, but also carry out an ambitious goal by India's Prime Minister Narendra Modi, who is making a similar push back home. Modi has institute a number of initiatives in his country aimed at cleaning up roads and other public spaces of trash. A task that is a major undertaking in a nation that has over 1 billion people.

While the state of environmental affairs on Everest is always good for making splashy headlines, it is important that people understand that there are efforts being made to clean up the mountain considerably. The Indian team is only one group that is doing so, but their work deserves to be recognized and saluted.


Meanwhile, in Kathmandu the climbers continue to arrive in droves. Earlier today Nick Cienski was amongst those that reached Nepal's capital city. He's the climber who has set an ambitious goal of summiting six 8000-meter peaks in a single year. He'll get things started this spring with Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. He'll now organize his gear and get ready to head out to the mountains soon, with Himex providing support for his expedition.

Finally, there is no change in the conditions on Annapurna, where the weather is still keeping the climbers in Base Camp. Several teams are ready to launch their summit bids there, but with heavy snow falling on the mountain it simply isn't safe to proceed up at the moment. Hopefully they'll get there chance soon.

That's all for today. More to come soon.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Slow Start to the Season

The 2015 spring climbing season in the Himalaya is only a few days old, and already the weather is of primary concern for the teams. Over on Annapurna the heavy snow is keeping the climbers firmly in Base Camp while they wait to launch a summit bid. Meanwhile back in Kathmandu, most of the mountaineers are still arriving in the country only to discover that the weather is delaying their departure for the mountains as well.

Alan Arnette arrived on the scene yesterday and is preparing for his expedition to climb Lhotse this spring. Yesterday he shared a dispatch from Kathmandu with an update on the situation there. He reports that poor weather in the Khumbu Valley is keeping most teams from departing for the Everest region. Low hanging clouds in Lukla are preventing flights from landing or taking off at that notoriously dangerous airport. As a result, many climbers are stuck in Nepal's capital and waiting for the skies to clear. (By the way, ExWeb has a good interview with Alan that you can read here.)

It is not uncommon in the early part of the season to have weather keep flights grounded. Alan says that fog, rain, and heavy snow are making the Khumbu a challenge to get in and out of at the moment, and while many teams are heading to the Kathmandu airport, they end up waiting for hours for a flight that doesn't take off, only to return to their hotel at the end of the day once again. Hopefully conditions will improve soon and the anxious men and women can start their long trek to Everest Base Camp.

Speaking of EBC, most teams have already sent their support staff to the mountain, where they are busily preparing camp for the arrival of the climbers. Also in Base Camp on the South Side are the Icefall Doctors, the team of Sherpas whose job it is to build and maintain the route through the dangerous Khumbu Icefall. The team is already busy scouting and establishing the safest path through the Icefall, but they have not completed that task just yet. Until they do, no one will be able to climb up to Camp 1 or the higher portions of the mountain.

As mentioned, the teams are at a standstill on Annapurna where they are waiting for the weather to improve. But on Monday of this week American climber Alex Barber arrived in BC and is preparing for his solo attempt – sans O's – on the mountain. He was expected to have his Puja ceremony yesterday, which means he will now be free to begin his climb. Expect Alex to start his acclimatization rotations today or tomorrow, weather permitting of course.

Right now, it seems that everything is "hurry up and wait" in Kathmandu. But with a little patience things should start to move again soon. Teams will be on their way to Base Camp before they know it, and the true climbing season will begin at long last.

Video: Drone Over Nepal

We have another short – but sweet – drone video today, this time from Nepal. The opening footage shown in the clip was shot around Kathmandu, giving viewers a sense of what that city looks like from the air. But later we head out to the Annapurna region, where the DJI Phantom 2 drone captures great shots of the countryside, as well as some beautiful looks at that far-off mountain.

Drone over Nepal from Fallout Media on Vimeo.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Climbers Streaming into Kathmandu, Summits Delayed on Annapurna

The calm before the storm is over in the Himalaya as the spring climbing season is now set to begin at last. This past weekend marked the start of the arrival of the majority of the teams heading to the big mountains this spring as dozens of mountaineers began arriving in Kathmandu prior to their departure to their respective Base Camps. And while they collect their things – and their thoughts – in the capital city, over on Annapurna the early season arrivals have begun playing the waiting game.

It was a very busy weekend in Kathmandu as visitors have begun streaming into the city. Most will now spend a few days there sorting their gear, meeting with their teammates, and receiving pre-expedition briefings. It is a hectic, busy time, but an exciting one as well. They'll travel to the Thamel District to pick up a last-minute piece of gear, they'll enjoy a good meal in a restaurant, and their final nights sleep in a real bed for two months.

But Kathmandu is a crazy, chaotic place as well. It is hot, dusty, and noisy. Rolling blackouts are a common occurrence, making it a challenge to enjoy your stay there too. So while the climbers will indeed relax a bit before their departure, they'll also be looking ahead to the cleaner air and slower pace of the trekking trails that will take them to the mountains.

Many of the new arrivals have set their sights on Everest of course, and even after they leave Kathmandu they will be hiking for the better part of a week before they reach Base Camp. This will be a time that will not only help with their early acclimatization efforts, but will also prepare them mentally for the challenges ahead. Walking up the Khumbu Valley, in the shadow of some of the tallest mountains on Earth, is an incredibly humbling experience, and it is the perfect way to get in the proper mindset for what is to come.


Among those who have started to arrive in Nepal are the Altitude Junkies, most of whom should reach Kathmandu over the next few days. They'll skip the trek to Everest and Lhotse however, and take helicopters to Base Camp instead. The Himex squad should also be gathering in the city now as well in preparation for their departure. Alan Arnette is en route to the Himalaya as well, and has set his sights squarely on Lhotse this spring. Once he has reached Kathmandu we're sure to get an update on how things are proceeding there too.

Meanwhile, as hundreds of climbers begin arriving in Nepal, there others already on Annapurna who are waiting for a chance to make a summit bid. Both Aussie climber Chris Jensen Burke and Spaniard Carlos Soria are now ready to attempt the climb, but have stalled out in BC waiting for weather to improve. They had originally hoped to launch their push to the top this past weekend, but deteriorating conditions there convinced them to wait for a better opportunity. That could come later this week, marking the second potential wave of summits on Annapurna already this season.

Now that we're on the brink of a new climbing season getting underway, expect lots of news out of Nepal as teams prepare for their climb, and more mountaineers arrive on the scene. It will be a busy week or two in Kathmandu before the teams settle into their routines. It should also be a very interesting time for those of us waiting and watching from home too.

Good luck to all the climbers in the weeks ahead. Get up and down safely.

Himalaya Spring 2015: More On Annapurna Tragedy

Yesterday we received the unfortunate news that two climbers had perished on Annapurna. Finnish climber Samuli Mansikka and local guide Pemba Sherpa lost their lives on the descent of the mountain after successfully reaching the summit on Tuesday. At the time that the story broke there was little more information than that, and the exact cause of their deaths was as yet unknown. The details remain scant today as well, but some of the story is starting to become clearer.

Samuli and Pemba were on Annapurna as part of the Dreamers Destination team. They arrived on the mountain early in the season in an attempt to summit before the spring snows change the complexion of the mountain. Their plan for an early summit paid off, and 13 members of the squad reached the top a few days back.

But apparently the team was slow in descending, and according to reports they ended up not returning to Camp 4 after their summit, and instead bivouacked at 7400 meters (24,278 ft). While they were stranded high on the mountain, something happened to Samuli and Pemba. The reportedly went missing for a time at 7100 meters (23,293 ft), and the rest of the squad wasn't sure where they were located. Their bodies were later discovered at 7000 meters (22,965 ft), but the cause of their death is either unknown, for has yet to be revealed.

The rest of the Dreamers Destination squad has been slowly making its way back down the mountain. Reportedly they are all both mentally and physically exhausted from their climb, and the ordeal that followed shortly there after. The squad is expected back in Base Camp tomorrow, after reaching Camp 1 today. Hopefully there will be no further problems as they descend, as many accidents occur when climbers are extremely tired.


Reportedly the attempts to retrieve the bodies of their fallen comrades has been called off. Yesterday it was reported that rescue helicopters had been dispatched to the mountain, but they were apparently called back. Considering the height at which they perished, it may be unsafe to attempt to bring them down. Particularly considering the state that the DD team is in at the moment.

Meanwhile, two other climbers are preparing to launch their summit bids on Annapurna as well. Both Australian climber Chris Jensen Burke and Spaniard Carlos Soria have reportedly wrapped up their acclimatization rotations and are now eyeing a weather window that will allow them to climb up to the summit. If everything goes as planned, they could be standing on top this weekend, although the conditions on the mountain will probably decide if that happens.

This is a surprising start to the spring climbing season. Most of the teams are only now preparing to arrive in Kathmandu ahead of the start of their expeditions. But we have already seen early season summits on Annapurna, and two tragic deaths. It is an ominous sign for things to come, but lets home the rest of the season goes more safely and smoothly.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Two Climbers Perish on Annapurna Following Successful Summit

There is sad news from the Himalaya today where we have received word that two climbers have perished on Annapurna following successful summits yesterday. Details of what exactly happened remain scarce at this time, but it seems that Finnish climber Samuli Mansikka and Pemba Sherpa both died while descending the mountain earlier. They are the first two casualties of the Spring climbing season in Nepal, where most other mountaineers are only just starting to arrive in Kathmandu.

As reported yesterday, Samuli and Pemba were part of the Dreamers Destinations team that topped out on Annapurna. The squad managed to put 13 climbers on the summit amidst good, early spring weather. It seems likely that following their successful summit bid the team returned to Camp 4 and rested there overnight before attempting to descend back to Base Camp today. Apparently an accident  must have occurred on that descent, claiming the lives of both climbers. What that accident was remains a mystery, but Annapurna is notorious for having frequent and deadly avalanches.

According to the article linked to above, the teammates of the two fallen climbers are hoping to retrieve their bodies from the mountain. Rescue helicopters have also been sent to assist in that process. The two men lost their lives at roughly 7000 meters (22,290 ft), so that process will not be an easy one.

This is a sad start to the climbing season which remains on the brink of actually starting. As mentioned, most climbers are only now preparing to set out for the Himalaya, with most not arriving in Nepal until next week. But the Dreamers Destinations team – amongst others – arrived on Annapurna early in an attempt to climb the mountain before it gets more dangerous later in the spring. At this point, the mountain is mostly still frozen following the long winter, and the heavy snows that come later have not started yet. Their plans for summiting early seemed to have worked brilliantly, although this accident will cast a long shadow over Annapurna, a mountain that is considered to be one of the deadliest in the world.

My condolences go out to the friends and family of Samuli and Pemba in their time of need.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Early Season Summits on Annapurna

With spring just a few days old, and most climbers still preparing to set out for the Himalaya, one team has already completes the first expedition of the season on one of the most difficult mountains in the entire world. According to Explorers Web, the Dreamers Destination team has reached the summit on Annapurna, and in the process introduced a new strategy for success on that mountain.

As I wrote yesterday, the team first arrived on Annapurna in early March and have spent the past few weeks acclimatizing to the altitude while fixing ropes and establishing their camps. That early season work paid off as the entire squad reached Camp 4 yesterday, putting them in position to continue to the summit today.

Earlier, the Dreamers Destination website was updated with the following post announcing the success of the team:

"Congratulations to the team of Dreamers Destination Annapurna Expedition team 2015 for conquering Mt. Annapurna which is most difficult mountain of all. Seven Clients and 6 Sherpa have made to summit recently."

Knowing that, we can assume that amongst the summiteers were Sherpa leaders Mingma G. Sherpa, Anggeli Sherpa, and four other members of the Sherpa team. Additionally, the seven clients include Finnish climber Samuli Mansikka, Iranian Reza Shahlaee, Turkish-American Muharrek Aydin Imrak and Macedonian Zdravko Dejanovic. The other three members of the squad are from China.


ExWeb alos quotes a dispatch from Mingma G. Sherpa in which he says: “All members and Sherpa are on top of Annapurna,” which serves to reinforce the announcement from the Dreamers Destination website.

The team used a bit of a unique strategy to summit Annapurna as early as possible in the spring. They arrived in winter, quickly acclimatized, and made their final push to the top well before the heavy snows of spring arrive. Those weather conditions often result in very difficult conditions high on the mountain during the traditional spring climbing season. Annapurna, which is widely considered the deadliest mountain in the world, is well known for having avalanches and unstable terrain as the season develops. The plan for this team was to get there early, summit prior to the arrival of the snow, and get off the mountain quickly.

The Dreamers Destination squad isn't alone in this idea. Other mountaineers have arrived on Annapurna early this year as well, including Spaniard Carlos Soria and Aussie Chris Jensen Burke. Both have already been as high as Camp 2, and are proceeding with their acclimatization efforts too. They are still a couple of weeks off from making summit bids of their own, but they do hope to reach the top of Annapurna early this spring as well.

Meanwhile, most Himalayan climbers are still preparing to depart for Kathmandu. Many will arrive there next week, and begin the journey to their various mountains – chief amongst them being Everest. Typically there is a short break between the winter and spring climbing seasons, but this year there really hasn't been much of a slow down as the seasons are now beginning to overlap to a degree.

This is just the start of what promises to be a busy and interesting spring in the Himalaya. Stay turned for much more to come in the days ahead.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Early Summit Push on Annapurna Begins

The spring climbing season in the Himalaya is only a few days old and already we have our first summit bid. Last week I wrote about the early arrival of teams on Annapurna, with some climbers already spending a few weeks on the mountain. Now it seems that one of those teams is already prepared to head toward the top even before most mountaineers even leave home.

According to ExWeb, Mingma G. Sherpa and Anggeli Sherpa of the Dreamers Destination expedition  had planned to finish fixing the ropes to Camp 4 yesterday. Behind them, the rest of the squad, which consists of Samuli Mansikka, Reza Shahlaee, Muharrek Aydin Imrak and Zdravko Dejanovic, were making their way upwards as well. That group were planning reach Camp 3 yesterday so that they could be in position for a summit push this week. If all goes well, they could top out as early as tomorrow, depending on weather and surface conditions.

It seems that the current strategy on Annapurna is to get to the mountain early in the spring to avoid some of the dangers that the peak is so well known for. As the season evolves, more snow falls on the upper slopes, making it more challenging to climb and creating increased avalanche danger as well. But by going early, the mountain is still frozen from the winter, helping to keep rocks and snow in place. On top of that, the heavy snows associated with the spring are still a few weeks away, making it safer in general to climb up.

The Dreamers Destination team is the only one to take this approach this year. 76-year old Spaniard Carlos Soria is already on Annapurna as well, and has spent a few nights in C2 as he acclimatizes. Aussie female climber Chris Jensen Burke has also been on the mountain since last week, and has also spent some time in both Camp 1 and 2 as par to her acclimatization.

Annapurna will be a busy place this spring with more climbers due later in the season. Among them will be American Alex Barber who hopes to make a solo summit attempt without oxygen. Alex just let for Nepal yesterday however so he won't be in Base Camp for awhile yet. He will be climbing with BC support from Seven Summits Treks along the North Side but which route he takes will be determined by the conditions of the mountain upon his arrival. Watch for updates on his progress in the days ahead.

Meanwhile, the vast majority of climbers will be preparing to depart for Nepal this week. Most expeditions won't officially get underway until around the April 1, so climbers are in last minute prep mode at home as they pack their gear, make plans for the days ahead, and start thinking about their individual expeditions. It is an exciting time, but it is about to get a whole lot more exciting.

There should be a lot more new to report soon. Stay tuned.

Video: 30 Days in Nepal

If you're looking for a very well made short-documentary to inspire some adventure this weekend, than look no further than the video below. It is a 30-minute film that follows the journey of the three friends who spent 30 days trekking the spectacular Annapurna Circuit in Nepal. The film gives viewers a taste of what it is like to travel from the chaotic streets of Kathmandu, to the breathtaking trails of the Himalaya. It also gives us wonderful glimpses of the culture, landscapes, and history of country as well. Sit back, get comfortable, and enjoy this one from start to finish.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Climbing Season Off to an Early Start

The winter climbing season has barely passed, and spring hasn't even officially arrived yet, but climbers are already getting an early start to the new climbing season in the Himalaya. The majority of the teams won't begin arriving in Kathmandu for another couple of weeks yet, but several high profile mountaineers are already in Nepal and acclimatizing for upcoming expeditions, including one team that has already arrived in Base Camp on Annapurna. 

According to a report from ExWeb, a team of climbers consisting of Samuli Mansikka, Mingma G. Sherpa, Reza Shahlaee, Muharrek Aydin Imrak and Zdravko Dejanovic, reached BC the first week of March, where they have been busy setting up camp and scouting the route up the mountain. In fact, they have already been able to establish both Camp 1 and 2 at 5100 meters (16,732 ft) and 5650 meters (18,536 ft) respectively. 

Last week the team was joined by 76-year old Spanish climber Carlos Soria, who looks to add two 8000-meter peaks to his resume this year. He intends to not only top out on the dangerous Annapurna, but also summit Dhaulagiri later in the spring. Soria has already completed his first rotation up to Camp 1, and is currently back in BC resting before going higher as part of his acclimatization efforts. 

The plan is for this team to get well established on the mountain as soon as possible so that they can make an early-spring summit attempt. As the season unfolds, more snow will be dumped on Annapurna, increasing its difficulty and raising the chances of a deadly avalanche. Annapurna holds the distinction of being one of the most treacherous mountains in the world, with a death-to-summit rate of around 33%. This team hopes to beat those odds – and reach the top – by climbing as early in the spring as possible. 

Meanwhile, after being turned away on Manaslu a few weeks back, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have moved into the Khumbu Valley, where there are continuing to acclimatize. They had hoped to make a winter ascent of that mountain, as well as its east summit, but heavy snows forced them off the mountain. Now, they are planning to return later in the spring and complete the project in better weather. 

As I've mentioned before, mid-March is actually the calm before the storm in the Himalaya. These few expeditions aside, it'll be a few weeks before things really start to ramp up. Most teams are still at home, putting the finishing touches on their planning, and starting to pack for their journeys. Soon they'll fly off to Kathmandu, where the real adventure will begin. Expect some very interesting stories in the days ahead, as the spring climbing season in the Himalaya is always a busy and interesting one. 

More to come soon. 

Prominent Mountaineers Making Plans For Spring Himalayan Expeditions

The winter climbing season is still in full swing, but already some of the more prominent mountaineers are looking ahead to the spring season in the Himalaya, which will once again be a busy one. Everest will of course be at the epicenter of those efforts, but there will be plenty of action to follow on other major peaks as well. While many climbers have yet to reveal their plans just yet, here are a few that we know about already.

Last week it was revealed that 76-year old Carlos Soria will attempt a double-header in the Himalaya this spring. In fact, he will actually depart for Nepal this Saturday so that he can get started on his acclimatization well ahead of his climbs. Carlos hopes to make an early attempt on Annapurna (8091 m/26,545 ft) and then jump over to Dhaulagiri (8167 m/26,794 ft) afterwards. If all goes according to plan, he'll add two more major peaks to his already impressive resume. As he prepares to depart, the Spaniard says that he is feeling good and looking forward to the challenge ahead.

Despite having been to Everest on six previous occasions, Ralf Dujmovits isn't quite done with the mountain just yet. He tells Stefen Nestler that he plans to return to the Big Hill this spring to attempt to summit without oxygen. Ralf has climbed all of the 8000 meters peaks, and with the exception of Everest back in 1992, he has done so without the use of supplemental oxygen. He aims to return this year and remedy what he now sees as a blemish on his climbing record.

Ralf will be climbing from the North Side this time out, and he is saying that this will definitely be his last expedition to Everest. He is far from finished climbing or pursuing other adventures, but at the age of 53 he is now seeking challenges elsewhere.

Of course, the other major event to take place on Everest this spring will be Kilian Jornet's attempt at a speed record. After setting impressive new marks on both Denali and Aconcagua in 2014, he'll have his work cut out for him on Everest. There is no question that Jornet is an impressive athlete, and I suspect he'll put in an impressive show on the tallest mountain on Earth. But he has never operated at an altitude like he one he'll experience on Everest. It will be interesting to see if he can maintain the level of performance that we've seen out of him in the past when he gets above 8000 meters (26,246 ft).

There will of course be plenty of other expeditions to follow in the weeks ahead. We're about six weeks off from the start of the spring season, and it is already shaping up to be an interesting one.

Winter Climbs 2015: Russians Depart Nanga Parbat, Daniele Preps For Summit Bid

There is more news to report from Nanga Parbat today, as the Russian squad that has been climbing the mountain has pulled the plug on their expedition. The team returned to Base Camp a few days ago after a summit bid stalled due to bad weather. The team began packing their gear and is now preparing to head home.

The news of the Russian team's departure came via a text message to the Russian Climb website. That message reads as follows:

"Today exactly 45th day as we left St. Petersburg, and, unfortunately, the time for our expedition runs to the end. The mountain is clear at last, for the first time in two weeks, but there're still snow flags on the top due to the strong wind. We pack BC and are going down."

Over the course of their month and a half on the mountain they were able to climb as high as 7150 meters (23,458 ft) before being turned back due to high winds. Since descending they have reported continued bad weather, although things are expected to gradually improve in the days ahead. Unfortunately for the four-man squad of  Nickolay Totmjanin, Serguey Kondrashkin, Valery Shamalo and Victor Koval, time has run out and they must now return home. 

Meanwhile, over on the Daimir Face, Alex Txikon and company have found it tough going on their way up to Camp 2. They have struggled to make progress in a speedy fashion due to deep snow along the route. The men had hoped to reach C2 yesterday, but unfortunately they came up just a bit short. The squad, which also consists of local climbers Muhammad Ali "Sadpara" and Muhammad Kahn, as well as a trio of Iranians (Reza Bahadorani, Iraj Maani and Mahmood Hashemi), had reached 5800 meters (19,028 ft) along the Kinshofer Route before having to call it a day. They hope to establish Camp 2 at 5900 meters (19,356 ft) today and possibly continue up to Camp 3 depending on conditions. 

Italian climber Daniele Nardi is going it alone on the Mummery Rib. According to his latest dispatch he reached Camp 3 at 5600 meters (18,372 ft) yesterday and will attempt to continue up the route today. The forecast indicates good weather for the next two days, with a bit of snow on the weekend. If those conditions hold, Daniele hopes to be in position to make a summit bid on Sunday. 

Finally, shifting gears to the spring climbing season ahead, Spanish mountaineer Carlos Soria has announced his plans for the Himalaya, and they are ambitious ones. The 76-year old climber doesn't appear to be slowing down any, as he now plans to climb both Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in a few months time. In fact, he intends to leave for Nepal next week, and will spend his time trekking throughout the country to begin his acclimatization well ahead of the start of the climbing season. He then says that he and his team will go to Annapurna early on to scout the mountain well ahead of time. Later he will proceed to Dhaula to continue his quest to summit all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks. 

Good luck to Carlos in this endeavor. He remains an inspiration to us all.