11-Year Old Climber Summits Elbrus in Quest for Seven Summits

Last week I posted a story about Tyler Armstrong, the 11-year old mountaineer who has designs on climbing Everest next spring. In that article I questioned whether or not such a young climber should be attempting to climb the world's tallest peak which is dangerous enough for full-grown adults. But while I was busy pontificating about Tyler's ambitions to become the youngest to accomplish such a feat, he was in Russia adding another mountain to his resume. The young man – climbing with his father – successfully summited Mt. Elbrus, the tallest mountain in Europe.

Tyler's expedition took five days to complete, culminating with a successful summit day on August 9. This was the third of the Seven Summits that he has climbed, with Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua already under his belt. The 5642 meter (18,510 ft) peak was seen as a bit of a warm-up for Everest next spring, as it gave Tyler the opportunity to work on more technical aspects of mountaineering, including rope skills and walking with crampons.

In order to climb Everest in 2016 Armstrong will need to get special permission from the Nepali or Tibetan governments. Both countries instituted minimum age requirements back in 2010 when Jordan Romero became the youngest person to climb Everest at 13 years old. Before Tyler can even start to climb the mountain, he'll need to plead his case just to get a permit. It will be interesting to see how officials from either country react to the petition.

Regardless of whether or not he gets to climb Everest, you do have to respect and admire Tyler's drive. While he is of course hoping to climb all of the Seven Summits at some point, he isn't doing it just to selfishly try to reach that goal at a young age. The young man is using these climbs to raise funds to fight muscular dystrophy, and he hopes to eventually reach a goal of $1 million for the Cure Duchenne organization.

Incidentally, yesterday I wrote a story about how Jon Krakauer admitted that climbing Everest was the "biggest mistake" of his life. In that post I wrote that Krakauer's reveal came after he received a question about climbing Everest from a young climber. It turns out that climber was Tyler, who was inquiring about Krakauer's experiences on the mountain back in 1996. I'm guessing he wasn't expecting the response that he got from the best selling author, who did just about everything he could to dissuade the 11-year old from climbing the mountain. We'll see if those words had any impact on Tyler, or his ambitions to climb in the Himalaya next year.

Jon Krakauer Calls Climbing Everest "Biggest Mistake of My Life"

Into Thin Air author Jon Krakauer raised eyebrows a few days back when he said that he felt climbing Mt. Everest was the biggest mistake of his life. Krakauer was speaking at a Huffington Post Live event at the time, which was being used to promote the new mountaineering film Meru in which he appears. His response came after receiving a question from a young climber who wanted tips for taking on the world's tallest mountain.

During the exchange Krakauer revealed that since climbing Everest back in 1996, the now-infamous season that was chronicled so famously in his book, he has suffered from bouts of PTSD, and continues to struggle with the events that too place there. You may recall that in 1996 eight climbers lost their lives on the mountain, including legendary guide Rob Hall. Into Thin Air is also he basis of the new film Everest that will be released to theaters on September 18.

Krakauer became famous thanks to the book, which was a bestseller at the time and is considered one of the top mountaineering books of all time. But, he told the HuffPo Live crowd "if I could go back and relive my life, I would never have climbed Everest."

Those are strong words from a guy who is so closely associated with the mountain. But they also show you how much of an impact the events that took place there have impacted his life, and he's probably not alone. A lot of people climb Everest for many different reasons, and the experience means different things to each of them. But when something as dreadful as the 1996 season goes down (or the 2014 and 2015 seasons for that matter), it is going to stick with you for the rest of your life.

The author went on to advise the 11-year old climber who initially asked the question about climbing Everest to think long and hard about his decision to do so. Krakauer told him "It's a serious, serious choice," adding, "If you do it, if you go for it, you'll be making really important decisions where your brain isn't functioning because of hypoxia or you haven't had enough to eat. Meru is a much harder mountain to climb, but in some ways Everest is much more dangerous. The dangers are more insidious. They're not as obvious."

Strong words indeed from a man who knows what he is talking about.

Video: Watch the Second Trailer for Everest

Next month, the big Hollywood adaptation of Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air will hit theaters at long last. Simply entitled Everest, this film features an all-star cast with the likes of Josh Brolin, Jake Gyllenhaal, Kiera Knightly, Robin Wright, and many more. Last week, the second trailer for the film was released, giving us more of a glimpse of what to expect from the movie. This trailer includes more climbing shots than we've seen in the previous clips, including some nerve-wracking scenes of climbers passing through the Khumbu Icefall. It also gives viewers a better sense of the scope of the story as well, which most of us know inside and out by now.

When the first trailer for the film was released, I was a bit skeptical. Now, I remain cautiously optimistic. There is still some cringe-worthy dialog at times, but the climbing scenes look top notch, and cinematography is breathtaking. I think it is safe to say that we probably haven't seen a mountaineering film of this kind before, and I am now eager to see it on the big screen. Hopefully it meets expectations. Checkout the second trailer below.

How Young is Too Young for Everest? 11-Year Old Planning Expedition to World's Highest Peak

Back in 2010 there was a raging debate in the mountaineering community about how old someone should be before they attempt a climb up Everest. At the time, American Jordan Romero was attempting to complete the Seven Summits, and the tallest mountain on Earth was his next objective. He was just 13 years old, and many – myself included – felt that he was too young to attempt such an expedition. But Jordan would eventually get up and down the mountain safely, becoming the youngest person to achieve that feat. He would later become the youngest to climb all of the Seven Summits as well, completing that task well before his 16th birthday.

Jordan's efforts were certainly inspiring, and he has proven himself to be an exceptional young man. But in the wake of his Everest climb, both Nepal and Tibet instituted age requirements for climbers in an effort to ensure that there wasn't suddenly a rush of children on the mountain. Since then, no one has truly challenged Jordan's record, although there have been some other teenage climbers who have summited the mountain.

Now it may be time to start thinking about this debate once again. An 11-year old American by the name of Tyler Armstrong says that he wants to climb Everest in the spring of 2016 as he continues his quest for the Seven Summits as well, and attempts to raise money to combat muscular dystrophy. If given the chance to climb the mountain, he would be 12 years and 4 months old at the time.


While this sounds like a recipe for disaster, Tyler isn't without experience on big mountains. He has climbed Rainier on more than one occasion, and he has also climbed Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua too. He plans to go to Russia to attempt Elbrus soon as well, which he sees as a warm-up to Everest. Still, none of those mountains is an 8000-meter peak, which brings a whole new level of challenge that the young man has yet to encounter.

In order to climb Everest, Tyler would first have to get special permission from either the Nepali government or the Chinese-Tibet Mountaineering Association. Either one could easily deny him a climbing permit, although they could just as easily give him the okay as well. Considering the results of the last two climbing seasons on Everest however, I would think twice about granting permission to climb to a young man who isn't even a teenager yet.

I'll go on record now as saying that I think this is once again a bad idea. I felt that way five years ago when Jordan Romero was climbing as well, and while he went on to prove me wrong, I still believe that 8000-meter peaks are no place for children, no matter where else they've climbed. For now, we'll have to wait to see if either the Nepalese or Chinese grant Tyler a permit, but I for one hope that they stick to the guidelines enacted back in 2010 and continue to require minimum age limits for all climbers. Unfortunately I don't feel all that confident that they will indeed enforce those rules.

Nepal Reopens Annapurna Circuit

One of the best trekking routes in the world has reopened in Nepal after being closed for the past three months following the devastating earthquake on April 25. Earlier today it was announced that the Annapurna Circuit is ready to receive hikers once again after an independent inspection team certified it safe for foreign visitors.

In the wake of the disaster, the Nepali government hired a California-based structural engineering company called  Miyamoto International to survey the Annapurna trail, as well as villages, tea houses, and other structures along its length. After an exhaustive study, the firm says that it found that less than 1% of the route, and 3% of the teahouses, had suffered any damage from the earthquake.

The news shouldn't come as much of a surprise, although it is good to know that the Annapurna Circuit is safe. The initial earthquake took place in the Kathmandu Valley, destroying homes, historical sites, and sometimes whole villages in the process. But the epicenter was far from the Annapurna region, which obviously suffered very little from the natural disaster.

A major aftershock hit Nepal just a few days after the April 25 quake. That one had its epicenter in the Khumbu Valley region, which is closer to Everest. Miyamoto is still surveying the trail to Everest Base Camp – the other popular trekking route in Nepal – and will release its results on that inspection soon. It is expected that the damage will be greater in that area, but that the trekking route will be reopened as well.

Nepal sees about 140,000 visitors each year just to hike these two routes. As the country struggles to rebuild, you can understand why it would want to reassure travelers that these areas are safe. Tourism dollars will play a big role in getting the country back on its feet, and this is a good step in rebuilding that industry. With the fall trekking season now just a couple of months away, it will be interesting to see how many people return, and how many stay away.

Man Completes Virtual Bike Ride Up Everest

So here's an odd, but interesting story. On Sunday, cyclist Frank Garcia became the first person to complete a bike ride to the summit of Mt. Everest, although he did so without ever stepping foot in Nepal. Garcia completed his monumental task onboard a stationary bike that had been programmed using Zwift to recreate similar slopes and distances he would encounter had he been on the mountain – minus the incredibly low levels of oxygen of course. The ride was than verified by an organization called Hells 500, which has created a new activity called "Everesting."

It took Garcia 17 hours and 18 minutes to complete his virtual ride to the summit, as he faced an average grade of the slope of 7% along the way. He burned approximately 18,000 calories en route as well, which should give you an idea of just how difficult this undertaking was, even if it didn't take place on the real mountain.

Everesting is apparently a relatively new phenomenon amongst cyclists who are picking a mountain road to ride anywhere in the world, and continually doing it over and over again until they rack up 8848 meters (29,029 ft), the exact height of Everest. The rules say that they are allowed to take breaks along the way, but they can't sleep. Several people have successfully done it already, including a man by the name of George Mallory (I can't make this stuff up!) who completed his attempt by cycling Mt. Donna Buang in Australia. Garcia's version of Everesting is the first to do so in the virtual realm.

Obviously this is nothing like climbing the real Everest, but it is still a pretty tough feat to accomplish. Gaining 29,000 feet of vertical in a single go is always going to be a challenge, no matter when and where it is done. According to the Everesting Hall of Fame however, it has been done on a number of occasions already.

This is pretty crazy stuff, and interesting to think about. I guess no matter how many people summit the real Everest, it will always remain the standard by which endurance activities are measured.

Everesting Mt Donna Buang from Simon Atkinson on Vimeo.

Mt. Everest Moved 3 cm by Nepal Earthquake

As Nepal continues to rebuild and recover from the deadly 7.8 magnitude earthquake that took place there back on April 25, we are starting to get a better understand of just how powerful this seismic event actually was. According to new reports, the earthquake was so strong that it actually moved Everest 3 cm (1.2 inches) to the southwest. That might not sound like it is very far, but when you consider the size of the mountain – the tallest in the world – and the slow pace of geologic movement, it is an incredible shift.

Precise measurements of Everest's movements have been observed since 2005 when the Chinese placed a satellite tracking system on the summit. Since then, they have seen the mountain move about 4 cm (1.5 inches) to the north each year, and grow at a rate of about .3 cm (.11 inches). But the earthquake not only reversed the direction of the movement, it also shifted the peak nearly an entire year's distance in one sudden, jarring motion. That motion caused avalanches to occur on Everest, with 18 people losing their lives in Base Camp on the South Side.

Despite this massive shift, it does not appear that the mountain lost or gained any altitude. Instead, it appears that it shifted horizontally, without moving vertically in any way. Furthermore, the 7.5 magnitude aftershock that occurred on May 12 had no impact on the mountain at all in terms of movement.

The initial quake in April claimed the lives of more 8000 people, and destroyed hundreds of buildings throughout the Kathmandu Valley. It also brought an abrupt end to the spring climbing season, with most major expeditions taking place in Nepal shutting down in the aftermath of the disaster. It is unclear whether or not there are any plans to return to the mountain this fall, but numerous trekking teams have already canceled their trips that were scheduled to take place in the post-monsoon months.

In the greater scheme of things, this shift in Everest's location would have gone unnoticed were it not for the precise instruments installed on the summit. But, that said, in terms of geological forces at work, it does give us an indication of just how powerful this earthquake truly was. When mountains are literally shifting it is easy to understand why the destruction was so widespread and massive in its scope. Thankfully, recovery efforts are well underway, but it is going to take years for Nepal to fully get past this disaster.

Video: Trailer for Hollywood Blockbuster Everest

I've known for sometime that Hollywood was making a movie that based around the events that took place on Everest back in 1996. The all-star cast that includes Josh Brolin, Jake Gyllenhaal, Robin Wright, and Keira Knightley was announced ages ago. Yesterday, the first trailer for the film was released, allowing us to get our first look at the film which is set for release on September 18. You'll find that trailer below.

I will admit that the film looks intriguing, and I've got my fingers crossed that Hollywood may have made a good mountaineering film for a change. Some of the dialogue in the trailer is a bit clichéd however, and there are a lot of overly dramatic scenes too. Hopefully those are just being played up to hype the film, and the full movie will offer a good look at the events that took place on the mountain. Either way, you know I'll be headed to the theater to catch this one. The scenery and cinematography alone look like they will be worth it. We'll find out in a few months. Meanwhile, take a look for yourself.

Everest Guide Dave Hahn Shares His Thoughts on the Nepal Earthquake

As the days go by, and the incessant news cycle pushes the stories about the Nepal earthquake further off the radar, it is easy to lose sight of the ongoing struggle that is currently taking place in the Himalayan country. After all, it is only natural for us to turn our attention elsewhere, even though the real work to rebuild has only just begun. A few days back, Rainier Mountain Guide Dave Hahn – who has 15 successful summits of Everest on his resume – wrote a blog post that shared his experiences on the mountain this spring, and the aftermath of the tragedy that occurred there. His words are a sharp reminder of the human loss, and the far reaching impact of this natural disaster.

Dave says that his RMI team was one of the first into Everest Base Camp this spring, after spending 10 days hiking up the Khumbu Valley. He reports that their acclimatization efforts were going well, and everything was proceeding as expected, even though snowstorms had disrupted the schedule some. On April 23, the group moved up the mountain to Camp 1 as they started an acclimatization rotation. Two days later – the day of the earthquake – they had ascended to Camp 2. That is where they were when the ground started rumbling, causing the earth to move under their feet, and shaking snow, ice, and rocks off of the mountains that surrounded them.

When things had calmed down, the team discovered that BC has been hit, and that numerous camps had been flattened. Their Sherpa and support staff in Base Camp immediately went to work helping those who were injured and searching for the missing. Ultimately the avalanche that swept through that part of the mountain would claim the lives of 19 climbers, and send a shockwave through the entire mountaineering community. 

Dave says that the RMI squad found themselves stranded at Camp 1, and all they could do was wait. Rebuilding the route through the treacherous Khumbu Icefall was "out of the question," as that notorious section of the mountain had been devastated by the disaster. On top of that, the Ice Doctors who maintain the route were focusing their efforts elsewhere. 

On April 27 – two days after the earthquake – the RMI team was airlifted by helicopter back to Base Camp. It was there that the magnitude of what happened truly began to set in. The climbers started to realize exactly what had happened, and reports of the widespread devastation were only just starting to creep in. There was no hesitation about canceling the climbing season, as everyone's attention was elsewhere. This was particularly true for the Sherpas who only wanted to get home to check on friends and family. 

Over the next three days the team descended down the Khumbu, getting a first hand look at the destruction as they went. Tea houses, restaurants, homes, and at times, whole villages, were destroyed. And yet Dave says that the climbers were still greeted with warmly by the people they met along the way. 

The guide says that the trek out was incredibly quiet, with all of the tourists already long gone. It was than that he, and the rest of the team, began to realize that an economic disaster lay ahead. On top of all of the destruction the earthquake had brought, it had also driven away the business that rural Nepal needs to survive. 

Dave's account of the disaster is a sobering one, and well worth a read for anyone who is interested in the ongoing struggles that Nepal faces. I've said it before, and I'll say it again. This is going to take years to recover from, and there are certainly places in the country that will never be the same again. 

Video: A Journey Through Nepal

Earlier today I made a post about the lack of a climbing season on Everest once again this year, and the challenges that Nepal faces on its road to recovery. In that post I remarked about how it is difficult to not fall in love with the Himalayan country, whose natural beauty and welcoming people are just so inspiring. This video will give you a first hand look at those aspects of Nepal. It is an hour-long documentary that takes you through the streets of Kathmandu, into the Chitwan National Park, and on the entire trek to Everest Base Camp. If you've never been to Nepal, this film will inspire you to want to go. If you've already been there, it will be a reminder of that beautiful place, and some of the things that were lost as a result of the earthquake. Either way, this is a video that you should get comfortable for, as it is a wonderful journey through Nepal without ever leaving your home.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Another Lost Season on Everest

This is the time of year when I should be posting about summit bids on Everest and other big Himalayan peaks. Historically speaking, this week is one in which all of the variables come together to allow the climbers on the world's tallest mountain to go to the top at long last. But for the second straight year we're left contemplating a tragic event that has brought a halt to those proceedings, although this year it is on a much grander scale than we could have ever imagined.

The Nepal earthquake continues to have far reaching consequences on a country that struggled to provide reliable services and good infrastructure even in the best of times. Now, it is a nation in ruins, and many people are without homes, jobs, food, or water. The road to recovery is going to be a long one, and it is surely going to be made all the more challenging thanks to the Nepali government's track record of internal corruption and a history of making dubious decisions.

Obviously my heart goes out to the people of Nepal in their time of need and suffering. But I also can't help but lament the fact that we have another lost season on Everest too. This is a time when exhausted – but overjoyed – alpinists should be returning to Base Camp having completed a climb that they have spent years dreaming about, months planning for, and weeks preparing to finish.

At this point in the season, most would have been on the mountain for about six weeks, and after days spent acclimatizing and waiting patiently, they would get their shot at the summit at long last. Instead, most of those climbers have long since left for home, their dreams shattered along with the Nepali countryside. Some remain in the country however, working hard to lend assistance where they can. Most people who visit Nepal – either as climbers or trekkers – feel a deep connection with the place, and the people who live there, which is part of the reason there has been such an impressive outpouring of support from the outdoor community. It is a very special place, where adventure, nature, and spirituality all come together in a perfect union that is hard to explain if you haven't experienced it for yourself. But when you do, it is something that you never can forget.

2014 will be remembered as a year when the Sherpa people mourned the loss of their brethren on the slopes of Everest. 2015 will be remembered as the year that we all morned the loss of our brothers and sisters in Nepal. It is hard to think about mountaineering expeditions when you consider all of the challenges that lie ahead for that country, but believe it or not climbing will help heal the people there. The return of climbers and trekkers will be a sign that things are returning to normal, and it will bring a much needed influx of cash to the economy. Those days are still a long way off at this point, but I think we are all eager for them to arrive.

Perhaps next year we'll see climbers make their way to the summit once again. It will be a sign that stability has returned at long last. But the Nepal will never be the same again, no matter how many people summit Everest.

Nepal Earthquake Causes Himalaya to Sink 3 Feet

If you're looking for an indication of just how powerful the earthquake that hit Nepal on April 25 truly was, than look no further than this story. According to reports, the 7.8-magnitutde quake, which destroyed buildings and claimed the lives of more 8000 people, was so strong that it actually caused some parts of the Himalaya to drop by as much as three feet (1 meter). In geological terms that is an extraordinary shift in plate tectonics, and would help explain why the devastation has been so far reaching.

Satellite imagery taken by the European Space Agency has confirmed the massive shift along the Indian and Eurasian Plates, the two tectonic forces that created the Himalaya in the first place. Those mountains have continued to grow at a steady pace over the millennia because those two plates are colliding with one another. Seismic instability often occurs along the fault lines where two plates meet. In this case, the original earthquake took place at a point in the Earth that isn't far from Kathmandu. The article describes the plate found under that point snapping like a rubber band under the extreme pressure.

The massive quake even had an impact on Mt. Everest itself, although it wasn't quite so dramatic as the three foot drop seen elsewhere. It is believed that the mountain lost about an inch (2.54 cm) of height following the tremors. That change would obviously be imperceptible to anyone on the mountain, but is still an indication of just how strong the quake was.

It is incredibly scary to think about these tectonic forces at work, and just how much damage they can cause. We only need to look at the images that have come out of Nepal over the past few weeks to get an understanding of just how much damage has been done. Those images show a country completely devastated by this disaster, with so much infrastructure wiped out that it will take years to rebuild everything.

Over time, the Himalaya will rebuild as well. In the case of Everest, it will probably regain the lost inch in about a year or so. The other places that have been hit more heavily will take far longer to recover their lost height. But while the Indian Plate continues to push against he Eurasian one, the mountains will continue to grow. And similar earthquakes to this one will continue to happen.

Video: On Top of Everest

Since there won't be any climbers going to the summit of Everest his year, I thought it might be appropriate to post this video so we can all go their virtually. It is a three-minute clip that takes us from Base Camp to the Summit, with some stunning views along the way. The allure of Everest remains incredibly high despite the tragedies of the past two years, and I'm sure that things will return to normal on the mountain very soon. But for now, we'll have to settle for this excellent short video from one of the most spectacular settings not he planet.

Everest - On the Top from Elia Saikaly on Vimeo.

The Road Ahead for Nepal

While I was away in Egypt, the major international story of note was of course the devastating earthquake in Nepal. While this event obviously occurred more than a week and a half ago at this point, I'd be remiss if I didn't at least acknowledge the tragedy and share my thoughts on the subject, something I was unable to do without a solid Internet connection while traveling.

Considering the amount of news coverage that has been dedicated to the earthquake – and its aftermath – over the past week, there is very little that I can actually add to the story that hasn't already been said. The number of fatalities is staggering, with more than 7000 already declared dead, and hundreds of others still missing. Entire villages have been wiped off the map, and incredible historical sites have been reduced to rubble. Kathmandu has seen whole neighborhoods disappear, as the 7.8 magnitude earthquake destroyed houses, markets, and ancient temples indiscriminately. It is wholesale devastation on a level that would leave just about any country reeling, let alone one that had a fragile infrastructure to begin with.

Thankfully, international aid and support began pouring into Nepal almost immediately. Numerous nations rushed to assist in recovering from the natural disaster that has left thousands without homes, food, water, and electricity. By most accounts, there is a stockpile of supplies accumulating in Kathmandu, and aid workers have arrived en masse to help begin the recovery process, which will take months – if not years – to complete. That process is likely to be stymied by the inefficient bureaucracy and corruption that are inherent there.

The tragic earthquake brought an end to another climbing season on Mt. Everest as well. The community of mountaineers that surrounds the tallest mountain on the planet was only just beginning to heal from the events of last year, when an avalanche claimed the lives of 16 porters on a single day. At the time, it was the worst disaster in the history of the mountain, but it was surpassed this year when the earthquake generated another avalanche that swept through Base Camp, killing 19. It was a chilling reminder of just how powerful the mountain truly is, and how dangerous of a place it can be, despite the hundreds of climbers who summit on a typical year.


This season, the China-Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) elected to shut down climbing operations on the North Side of the mountain as well. The move was made to allow Sherpas to return home to their devastated villages, and because of continued after shocks from the initial earthquake. The move was applauded within the mountaineering community as the right decision, and it is difficult to argue with the logic behind closing down the Tibetan side of Everest.

But once again, the Nepali government has shown its level of incompetence by sending mixed messages about climbing on the South Side. Considering the immense loss of life – not to mention the untold property damage – from the disaster, it seems like it would be a no-brainer to close the mountain once again. Officials waffled on that decision however, and even hinted that operations could resume as early as this week. Fortunately, someone at the Ministry of Tourism, which oversees climbing on Everest and other major mountains, eventually came to their senses and pulled the plug on the season once again. It wasn't like they had much choice however, as nearly every commercial team had already abandoned Base Camp and headed for home.

Of course, the major question that is on everyone's mind now is what will happen next? Search teams are still sifting through the rubble in Nepal, discovering more bodies on a daily basis. Those operations aren't likely to cease for weeks, and the start of the rebuilding process is still a long way off. It is going to take years for the country to recover from this disaster, and it is likely to get much more painful for everyone involved as well.

At the moment, there is a sense of urgency in Nepal, as foreign aid workers continue to assist in the recovery process. But down the road many of those workers will begin to head home, leaving the Nepali government to more directly manage the distribution of supplies and the rebuilding of its infrastructure. The problem is, that government has shown that it has a knack for being inept and corrupt beyond measure. It seems highly likely that millions of dollars in funds will end up lining the pockets of politicians, rather than directly helping those it was intended for. If that sounds a bit pessimistic, it is only because that has been the pattern of behavior we've seen from the government in the past, and there is no reason to believe that the earthquake has altered that culture in any way.

Regardless of how the money and resources are managed however, it will be a very long time before Nepal will return to "normal." This is a country that doesn't define the word "normal" in the same way that we in the West do, and while they are use to disruptions in services, the sheer scale of the devastation from this earthquake will make it very difficult to manage the process of rebuilding.

In some sense, this could be a major opportunity for Nepal to modernize and improve its infrastructure, and in the long run it could mean good things for the people that live there. But that light at the end of the tunnel is still painfully far off at this point, and getting there is going to incredibly difficult.

You'll have to forgive me for taking such a dim view on how the country will move forward. The lack of leadership there makes it difficult to see how the will manage the incredibly complex project that will involve recovery and rebuilding. It wouldn't be an easy process under the best of circumstances, but in a place like Nepal it'll be nearly impossible. But perhaps the earthquake will actually provide the country with the true leadership it needs, and someone will rise up to take the country into the 21st century at long last.

Of course, the trekkers and climbers will return at some point, which will help the economy of Nepal. I imagine by fall the country will see many foreign visitors pouring in once again, as they go hiking in the Himalaya and climbing on some of the world's most challenging and beautiful peaks. The spring 2016 Everest season will be a somber one for sure, although hundreds of climbers will no doubt be lined up to attempt to summit the mountain. But the scars of this season will take a long time to heal, and the loss of life will not soon be forgotten.

My heart goes out to those who lost loved ones in Nepal on that tragic Saturday in April. I also tip my  hat to the aid workers who have rushed in to help begin the recovery process. The earthquake will likely show us the best and worst of mankind, as it leaves an undeniable mark on Nepal's history, and charts its course for the future as well.

Back From Egypt!

I am happy to say that I am back from Egypt and ready to resume a normal posting schedule here at The Adventure Blog. My trip was a fantastic one, filled with all kinds of natural and manmade wonders. You'll be hearing a lot more about my experiences in the days ahead, as I share my thoughts on what is like to travel through a country that is steeped in history but has also faced some very large challenges in recent years as well.

I'd like to thank my friends at G Adventures for sponsoring me on this trip and showing me a side to Egypt that I hadn't seen on my first visit more than a decade ago. The people and places that I experienced while there were nothing short of spectacular, and I would unequivocally encourage any traveler to visit the North African country. Not only is it safe and secure at the moment, it is also incredibly quiet as the entire tourism industry in Egypt waits (not so) patiently for visitors to return. A few years ago, the Pyramids at Giza saw more than 20,000 visitors per day. Now, it is a fraction of that number, and as a result the Egyptian economy is struggling to a degree. For those who have always wanted to go, that is a good thing, as there are definitely deals to be had. But for those who make a living in tourism there, it has been a tough struggle since the revolution in 2011.

Obviously a lot has happened while I was away, and I'll be playing catch-up with some of the bigger stories that took place. Not the least of those was the devastating earthquake in Nepal, which brought an abrupt end to another climbing season on Everest, and brought tragedy to a country that has struggled mightily in recent years. The aftermath of this tragedy will be felt for years to come, and the story moving forward will be how Nepal can manage to rebuild itself in the wake of the ongoing challenges it has already faced in terms of developing its economy, expanding its fragile infrastructure, and eliminating rampant corruption. It is going to be an uphill battle to say the least, but one that could eventually produce significant gains for the Himalayan nation.

Although the earthquake in Nepal dominated headlines over the past few weeks, there were a few other major stories that took place while I was going as well. I'll be attempting to post updates on those in the day ahead too, even as other interesting stories arise. In other words, it is time to get back to the business of adventure, and I'm looking forward to sharing that with you. Thanks for your patience in my absence, and expect more inspiring and fun stories to follow soon.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Puja Ceremonies and a Collapse in the Icefall

There as been another setback on Everest that is keeping the climbers in Base Camp today, despite the need to start their acclimatization rotations soon. Earlier in the week it was bad weather that prevented them from getting on the move, but now it is a collapse in the Khumbu Icefall that has delayed the start of the first rotations up the mountain.

Alan Arnette reports that more than 80 Sherpas were in the Icefall this morning as they continued their work to shuttle gear up to Camps 1 and 2. But the collapse of the ice along the route caused all of them to turn back. Apparently there was a traverse over a large crevasse that required four ladders to complete, and the entire thing came crumbling down. The Khumbu Ice Doctors will now have to search for an alternate route through the dangerous Icefall. Fortunately, no one was hurt in the collapse.

This is not uncommon, and is large part of why crossing through the Icefall is so dangerous. This portion of the mountain is incredibly unsteady, and the Ice Docs work all season long to keep the route safe and open. This sounds like it was a major collapse however, so it could take a day or two for them to find a new path. You may recall that this route was described as safer and shorter than the ones used in the past, and hopefully that won't change following this incident.

Alan also says that his team had its Puja ceremony a few days back. The Puja is an important step for any climbing expedition, as no one can start up the mountain until it is finished. During the Puja, a Buddhist monk brings the climbers and Sherpas together to ask permission from the mountain gods to safely pass up Everest, or what ever other mountain they are climbing. Traditionally, the monk will also bless their gear and ask the gods to keep the climbers safe. While it is taken very seriously by everyone, it is also a time to celebrate and have too.


With the Puja over, the teams are then ready to start the climb, but the unusually heavy snowfall continued on Everest over the past couple of days, preventing anyone from going higher than Base Camp. None of the commercial teams have passed through the Icefall as of yet, and no one other than the Sherpas have been up to Camp 1 or 2. Hopefully that will change shortly, as it is now time to begin acclimatizing for sure. In fact, some of the squads have actually gone off to other mountains to begin their acclimatization process. For instance, American climber Jim Davidson has moved over to Lobuche East where he'll go as high as 6118 meters (20,075 ft) on the summit. He hopes to wrap up that climb today, and head back to Everest BC.

Over on Annapurna, the teams continue to play the waiting game. The weather has remained bad there too, not allowing teams to make their summit pushes. Heavy snows have blanketed the upper slopes of the mountain in powder, making it extremely unsafe. Avalanches are common on Annapurna even in the best of conditions, but with so much snow falling on the mountain, breaking trail is incredibly difficult, and the risks of avalanche too high. For now, everyone must bide their time, and wait for things to improve.

ExWeb has posted a round-up of news from other 8000 meter peaks, and much of the news is the same. Poor weather continues across the Himalaya, including on Manaslu where Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger had hoped to make a spring attempt after their winter climb was thwarted. According to reports, the duo returned to the mountain in early April only to discover that more snow had fallen in their absence and they couldn't even locate their cached gear under all of the powder. They elected to pull the plug on the expedition altogether, and have now returned home.

The same story is being reported on Shishapangma, Cho Oyu, and Dhaulagiri, where ExWeb says a team of trekkers ran into serious trouble a few days back. Heavy snows caught the unprepared team off guard, and they were forced to take shelter in Base Camp where a climbing team offered them assistance. Apparently, whiteout conditions continue there now, making it very difficult for anyone to go anywhere.

Finally, tomorrow marks the one year anniversary since the massive avalanche claimed the lives of 16 porters on Everest. I'm sure it will be a solemn occasion on the mountain as the Sherpas and western climbers all think about that day. Many of the people on the mountain this spring were there last year too, so I expect there will be some memorial services and ceremonies held. I have no doubt that those who lost their lives will be on the minds of the climbers the next few days.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Climbers Arriving in North Side Base Camp, Nat Geo Interviews Raphael Slawinski

The start of the 2015 climbing season continues to unfold as expected. Teams are continuing to arrive in Everest Base Camp on the South Side, where they are being greeted by unusually heavy snow that is delaying the start of their acclimatization rotations. Meanwhile, the first climbers are now en route to BC on the North Side as well, as some other notable mountaineers arrive in Kathmandu.

Will start with news from the North Side today. While climbers from the Nepali side of the mountain have been slowly making their way out to Base Camp over the past week or so, those heading north generally have to wait for the Chinese to open the border into Tibet. That has now happened, and the teams who will be climbing from that side of the mountain have begun to cross over and are now making their way to BC as well. Unlike on the South Side however, they can actually drive to the start of their climb, so they generally take a few days to get there by stopping the towns of Nyalam and Tingri for acclimatization purposes.

But North Side Base Camp is quickly becoming a hive of activity, as Sherpas from the major teams have arrived onsite and are quickly getting the camp prepared for the arrival of the climbers. According to reports, there will be roughly people attempting to summit from the Tibetan side this spring, with about 150 Sherpas joining them.


Among the notable expeditions hitting the North Side this spring is Kilian Jornet's attempt at a speed record from that side of the mountain. The Spanish ultra-runner has not left for the Himalaya yet however, although that doesn't seem unusual. We know that he'll be we acclimatized before he arrives in the Himalaya, and will most likely want a late summit attempt anyway so that he can avoid bottlenecks and traffic jams near the summit.

Also heading north is Raphael Slawinski, and his climbing partners David Goettler and Daniel Bartsch. They'll be attempting a new route along the Northeast Ridge this spring, and if successful it'll be the first new route opened on Everest in more than a decade. The trio will make the attempt in alpine style, without oxygen, fixed ropes, or Sherpa support. The team is on its way to BC now, but prior to their departure National Geographic conducted an interview with Slawinski about their expedition. In it, he shares thoughts on his motivation for this climb, details on the route itself, their projected schedule, and much more.

Young climber Matt Moniz is on his way to Kathmandu as I write this. He'll be attempting a double summit of Everest and Lhotse from the South Side, and the first full ski descent of Lhotse as well. He's climbing with Willie Benegas, and should arrive in Nepal tomorrow where he'll catch his breath briefly before heading out to Base Camp.

ExWeb is reporting that route fixing has begun on both side of the mountain with teams of Sherpas installing ropes that will eventually be used by the commercial climbing teams. According to reports, the rope fixing team on the South Side have passed through the Khumbu Icefall and have gone up all the way to Camp 2. That means that once the weather clears, the climbers can start their acclimatization rotations on schedule. That should happen in another day or two. Meanwhile, on the North Side, the ropes have been placed all the way to the North Col, setting the stage for the climbers on that side of the mountain too.

Finally, Alan Arnette has checked in from South Side EBC where he is told that the new route through the Icefall is safer and shorter than it has been in the past. He also says that there is a fast new Internet service in Base Camp that will help facilitate better communication, although it comes at a cost of $40 for 1GB of data.

Alan also says that helicopters are a common site in BC this year, despite the fact they were suppose to be banned. He counted 10 flights just in the time that he wrote his most recent blog post. In other words, the Nepali government continues to promise things, but not deliver. Hopefully some of their pledges will become reality.

That's all for now. More to come soon.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Heavy Snows Hit Everest Delaying Acclimatization Rotations

We continue to have a steady stream of news and information coming from the Himalaya this spring, as regular updates are keeping us well informed of the happenings there thus far this season. At the moment, the teams continue to arrive in Base Camp on Everest, where they are being greeted by some unusually poor weather conditions that are delaying the start of the actual climbs.

According to a report from the Himalayan Times, about 900 people are now in EBC. That number represents 60% of the climbers and their support staff, so a large number of people are yet to arrive on the mountain. Most began trickling in this past weekend, although there are still some larger teams yet to reach the mountain. With so many climbers, porters, and support crew now onsite, Base Camp has transformed into a hive of activity, with the squads undertaking training exercises, making acclimatization hikes, and resting, while preparing for their first opportunity to go up to higher altitude.

Some of those efforts may be delayed now however, as two feet (60 cm) of snow has fallen on Base Camp since yesterday. That weather has blanketed the tents and ground in fresh powder, which will certainly have an impact on schedules for the next day or two. But perhaps more troubling is the fact that this unusual snowstorm continues a trend of bad weather in the Khumbu that has been plaguing the area all spring. Typically the conditions have started to improve by now, with clear skies settling in. That hasn't been the case so far however, and as a result, it has been anything but a typical year so far.


The poor weather continues to be blamed for the unusually high number of climbers and trekkers who have been contracting altitude sickness as well. I reported last week about this trend, and it seems to continue now. According to the Himalayan Times article, more than 205 patients have been treated thus far this season, and 17 have had to be evacuated back to Kathmandu for further attention. If the weather continues to be bad, we could see dangerous bouts with Acute Mountain Sickness when the climb actually gets underway.

The Times is also reporting that Min Bahadur Serchan is returning to Everest this season in an attempt to regain his record as the oldest person to climb the mountain. Now 84, Sherchan lost the title to a Japanese climber by the name of Yoichiro Miura, who reached the summit at the age of 80 back in 2013. He'll be headed to the Khumbu Valley soon to start his acclimatization.

Over on Annapurna, conditions remain the same. Heavy snow is falling on the mountain, and once again delaying the start of summit bids there. Earlier today, Alex Barber climbed up to Camp 1 on an acclimatization trek and gear run. He had hoped to climb up to C2, but visibility was almost non-existent, and it appeared that the weather was further deteriorating, so he elected to turn around and go back down to BC instead. On his climb, Alex reported that he witnessed a great deal of avalanche activity, which he hopes is not a sign of things to come. Annapurna is notorious for its dangerous avalanches, and with all of the snow that has been falling there lately, the chance of a major slide only increases.

That's the update for today. It is hurry up and wait in the Himalaya, where the weather is dictating the schedule as usual.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Teams Arriving in Everest Base Camp, Summit Bids Delayed on Annapurna

The spring climbing season in the Himalaya is about to get a whole lot more interesting. As expected, teams began arriving in Everest Base Camp over the weekend, and while they'll take a day or two to get settled, it won't be long before they start heading up the mountain itself, or visiting nearby peaks to launch acclimatization and training rotations on other mountains. For some, the skills training has already begun, with a number of units entering the Khumbu Icefall to work on their rope skills. Others are just now arriving, but will begin the real work soon.

Amongst those expected to arrive in EBC today are Alan Arnette. He checked in from Gorak Shep – the last stop before reaching the mountain – yesterday, and shared plenty of interesting news from the Khumbu. For instance, Alan has learned that there are roughly 319 individual climbers who have received permits to climb Everest this year. With a few more teams yet to check in, that puts the numbers on par with last year. That means that the tragedy from last season, and the ensuing shutdown of climbing operations, hasn't dissuaded anyone from coming to the mountain. Of those, 109 have returned from last year, with the Nepali government honoring their permits from 2014. Also, Alan says that there are an additional 96 climbers on Lhotse as well.

Perhaps more of interest is the changing dynamic of the teams on the mountain. Traditionally, squads led by western guide services bring about 8-12 clients to Everest, but there are now Nepali owned companies who have as many as 60 people in their groups. This is, of course, an economics of scale move, allowing them to bring the price of the climb down through larger numbers. One has to wonder however if they are sacrificing safety in the process.


Even more dismaying is that Alan reports that he has yet to see any evidence of the changes that the Nepali government promised in the wake of the two disasters last year – the avalanche on Everest that claimed the lives of 16 porters, and the massive blizzard that killed 45+ trekkers last fall. After those two incidences the government promised better weather forecasting, improved communications, GPS tracking systems, and an increased presence of medical and liaison offers with the teams. In Alan's own words, these improvements have yet to materialize, making me wonder if they are just more empty promises meant to assuage the fears of potential visitors and the media that covers these events.

Alan also reports that the Khumbu Valley seems to be changing as well. He says that the staff in the teahouses don't seem as cordial as they have been in the past, and prices for food, drinks, and lodging have gone up significantly. He also says that the teahouses are more full than ever, making the common rooms far busier and more noisy in the past. That's good for business in the region of course, but it also is changing the experience of trekking to EBC too.

All of that said, once the climbing teams reach Base Camp, they'll start to focus more on the business of climbing. Soon, these reports will turn more towards status updates as they work their way up the mountain, focus on getting acclimatized, and eventually launch summit bids. That is still several weeks off however, and for now it's all about getting settled into what will be their home for the next month or so.

Meanwhile, over on Annapurna, the summit bids that were expected to begin over the weekend have been cancelled. On Friday, the weather forecasts looked very promising for the days ahead, but that changed dramatically over the weekend. Now, large storms are moving into the area, and are expected to bring as much as 5 feet (1.5 meters) of snow along with them. That will prevent anyone from going anywhere near the top, and could increase the danger of avalanches in the days ahead. So, for now, Carlos Soria, Chris Jensen Burke, and others sit in BC and wait for that ever elusive opportunity to go up.

That is all for today. I'll report more as the news warrants it. For now, most of the teams are still getting settled in Everest Base Camp, but expect the first forays through the Icefall – along the new route new less – to begin in just a few days time. Things will start to get much busier now, and the real climbing is about to begin.

Himalaya Spring 2015: A Train Tunnel Under Everest, News From Annapurna, and More

The climbing teams continue to make their way to Everest Base Camp, with some large groups expected to arrive there this weekend. As we wait for them to get settled, and begin their first training sessions and acclimatization rotations, there is still plenty of things to report on, including some mountaineering stories that are making a splash with the mainstream media.

One of the more spectacular stories to hit the newswire over the past few days is this one  from The Guardian reporting that China has proposed building a train tunnel running through Everest. The tunnel would expand China's already impressive railway network into Nepal, and possibly would eventually link it to India. According to the article, engineers and builders would have to run some very long tunnels through the Himalaya, including one that would pass through Everest itself. The project could be completed as early as 2020.

When I read this story I had to check to make sure it wasn't dated April 1. This seems so outlandish that I didn't think there was anyway it could be real. Not only would this be an engineering project of epic proportions, it would bring a new level of disruption to the Himalaya that would alter the landscape there forever. While a new rail line would probably be good for business in Nepal and this part of the world in general, I'm hoping they'll find an alternate route to run it through. Only time will tell if this story will actually become reality, but I sure hope it doesn't impact the mountain too much.

Elsewhere, National Geographic Adventure has posted a story about climber Matt Moniz. The 17-year old climber is back in the Himalaya this spring where he's attempting an 8000-meter double-header by climbing both Everest and Lhotse. He also hopes to make the first ski descent of the Lhotse Coulorr while he's at it. Ambitious plans for the spring for sure. In the article, Matt talks about his attempt at a different double-header, climbing both Cho Oyu in Tibet and than Everest. Of course, the attempt on Everest was scuttled due to the tragic avalanche there, but Matt made the best out of the situation, climbing Makalu instead. This year, he hopes to find more success on the world's tallest mountain.


The Himalayan Times has posted an article that shares details of the accident on Annapurna from a few weeks back that claimed the lives of Samuli Mansikka and Pemba Sherpa. The story calls the accident "a careless accident" saying that Samuli was not clipped into the ropes as the group made their descent following a successful summit. In the dark they lost their way, and climber wandered off on his own to search for the route down. He apparently took a misstep and fell 400 meters into a crevasse. Pemba's accident was actually a separate one, as he was descending on his own as well, and by coincidence ended up in the same exact crevasse.

Both men got a little careless on the descent and over confident in their skills. Climbing alone is rarely a good idea, and can result in tragedies such as this one. It is a sad story for both Samuli and Pemba's families for sure, but a good reminder to the rest of us to be safe and maintain the fundamentals while climbing in the mountains.

Speaking of Annapurna, it seems that the weather is finally taking a turn for the better. Carlos Soria hopes to launch his summit bid this weekend, setting off for the top on Sunday. Presumably, Aussie climber Chris Jensen Burke will also have a go at the summit as well, as she has been waiting for more than a week for conditions to improve too. Hopefully we'll have more information about their plans next week, as the forecast calls for improving conditions in the days ahead.

Similarly, solo climber Alex Barber is planning to head up this weekend as well with an eye on reaching Camp 3 as part of his acclimatization process. He is currently recovering from a bout of food poisoning, but is finally regaining his strength now. He will set off on Sunday to, going directly up to C2 where his gear is cached. He'll then climb to C3 on Monday, although he indicates that the route is filled with deep snow at the moment.

That's all from the Himalaya today. More news to come next week.