How Young is Too Young for Everest? 11-Year Old Planning Expedition to World's Highest Peak

Back in 2010 there was a raging debate in the mountaineering community about how old someone should be before they attempt a climb up Everest. At the time, American Jordan Romero was attempting to complete the Seven Summits, and the tallest mountain on Earth was his next objective. He was just 13 years old, and many – myself included – felt that he was too young to attempt such an expedition. But Jordan would eventually get up and down the mountain safely, becoming the youngest person to achieve that feat. He would later become the youngest to climb all of the Seven Summits as well, completing that task well before his 16th birthday.

Jordan's efforts were certainly inspiring, and he has proven himself to be an exceptional young man. But in the wake of his Everest climb, both Nepal and Tibet instituted age requirements for climbers in an effort to ensure that there wasn't suddenly a rush of children on the mountain. Since then, no one has truly challenged Jordan's record, although there have been some other teenage climbers who have summited the mountain.

Now it may be time to start thinking about this debate once again. An 11-year old American by the name of Tyler Armstrong says that he wants to climb Everest in the spring of 2016 as he continues his quest for the Seven Summits as well, and attempts to raise money to combat muscular dystrophy. If given the chance to climb the mountain, he would be 12 years and 4 months old at the time.


While this sounds like a recipe for disaster, Tyler isn't without experience on big mountains. He has climbed Rainier on more than one occasion, and he has also climbed Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua too. He plans to go to Russia to attempt Elbrus soon as well, which he sees as a warm-up to Everest. Still, none of those mountains is an 8000-meter peak, which brings a whole new level of challenge that the young man has yet to encounter.

In order to climb Everest, Tyler would first have to get special permission from either the Nepali government or the Chinese-Tibet Mountaineering Association. Either one could easily deny him a climbing permit, although they could just as easily give him the okay as well. Considering the results of the last two climbing seasons on Everest however, I would think twice about granting permission to climb to a young man who isn't even a teenager yet.

I'll go on record now as saying that I think this is once again a bad idea. I felt that way five years ago when Jordan Romero was climbing as well, and while he went on to prove me wrong, I still believe that 8000-meter peaks are no place for children, no matter where else they've climbed. For now, we'll have to wait to see if either the Nepalese or Chinese grant Tyler a permit, but I for one hope that they stick to the guidelines enacted back in 2010 and continue to require minimum age limits for all climbers. Unfortunately I don't feel all that confident that they will indeed enforce those rules.

Mt. Everest Moved 3 cm by Nepal Earthquake

As Nepal continues to rebuild and recover from the deadly 7.8 magnitude earthquake that took place there back on April 25, we are starting to get a better understand of just how powerful this seismic event actually was. According to new reports, the earthquake was so strong that it actually moved Everest 3 cm (1.2 inches) to the southwest. That might not sound like it is very far, but when you consider the size of the mountain – the tallest in the world – and the slow pace of geologic movement, it is an incredible shift.

Precise measurements of Everest's movements have been observed since 2005 when the Chinese placed a satellite tracking system on the summit. Since then, they have seen the mountain move about 4 cm (1.5 inches) to the north each year, and grow at a rate of about .3 cm (.11 inches). But the earthquake not only reversed the direction of the movement, it also shifted the peak nearly an entire year's distance in one sudden, jarring motion. That motion caused avalanches to occur on Everest, with 18 people losing their lives in Base Camp on the South Side.

Despite this massive shift, it does not appear that the mountain lost or gained any altitude. Instead, it appears that it shifted horizontally, without moving vertically in any way. Furthermore, the 7.5 magnitude aftershock that occurred on May 12 had no impact on the mountain at all in terms of movement.

The initial quake in April claimed the lives of more 8000 people, and destroyed hundreds of buildings throughout the Kathmandu Valley. It also brought an abrupt end to the spring climbing season, with most major expeditions taking place in Nepal shutting down in the aftermath of the disaster. It is unclear whether or not there are any plans to return to the mountain this fall, but numerous trekking teams have already canceled their trips that were scheduled to take place in the post-monsoon months.

In the greater scheme of things, this shift in Everest's location would have gone unnoticed were it not for the precise instruments installed on the summit. But, that said, in terms of geological forces at work, it does give us an indication of just how powerful this earthquake truly was. When mountains are literally shifting it is easy to understand why the destruction was so widespread and massive in its scope. Thankfully, recovery efforts are well underway, but it is going to take years for Nepal to fully get past this disaster.

Summer Climbs 2015: 6 Summit Challenge Continues in Pakistan

Earlier this year I told you about Nick Cienski and his 6 Summits Challenge. At the time, Nick was just about to embark on a massive undertaking that would see him attempt to climb six different 8000-meter peaks in a single year. He had hoped to knock off Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu this spring, but unfortunately the Nepal earthquake put an end to those ambitions. Now, Nick has shifted gears some, and identified three other mountains that he will attempt instead. With that goal in mind, he is now ramping up for an ambitious summer in Pakistan.

Following the April 25 earthquake that devastated Nepal, Nick and his team went to work lending support and aid to the country. As with many other climbers, their efforts have helped to rebuild the country that still has a very long road to navigate before any sense of normalcy returns.

In July, Nick will travel to Pakistan to relaunch the 6 Summits Challenge. He will now focus on climbing Broad Peak (8051 meters/26,414 ft), and both Gasherbrum I (8080 meters/26,444 ft) and II (8035 meters/26,362 ft). Together, these three mountains are the 11th, 12th, and 13th highest mountains in the world, and will make for a significant undertaking in the weeks ahead.

This isn't Nick's first time climbing in the region. In fact, he has climbed on Broad Peak twice in the past, reaching the summit back in 1990. He is likely to find that things are a bit different on the mountain now, with more teams visiting on an annual basis. The two Gasherbrum peaks will be a new challenge for Cienski, although after acclimatizing on BP, he'll probably go for a traverse that links the two summits in one long climb.

Following his Pakistani climbs, Nick will travel to Tibet in the fall, where he'll than attempt to summit Shishapangma (8027 meters/26,335 ft) and Cho Oyu (8201 meters/26,906 ft). After that, the plan is to travel back to Nepal to complete the challenge by summiting Manaslu (8163 meters/26,781 ft). Those expeditions are expected to take place immediately after he wraps up the summer triple-header, beginning sometime in late-August.

One thing that hasn't changed with the 6 Summit Challenge is that Nick is using it to raise funds for his Mission 14 organization. This nonprofit is dedicated to stamping out human trafficking, which continues to be a major issue in just about every corner of the globe.

I said it before, and I'll say it again. Summiting six 8000-meter peaks in a single year is going to be tough. Now however, it'll be even more challenging as Nick needs to complete the climbs in a smaller window of opportunity. We'll soon see if he is up to the task. You can follow his progress on Facebook and Twitter as he pushes forward in the weeks ahead.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Puja Ceremonies and a Collapse in the Icefall

There as been another setback on Everest that is keeping the climbers in Base Camp today, despite the need to start their acclimatization rotations soon. Earlier in the week it was bad weather that prevented them from getting on the move, but now it is a collapse in the Khumbu Icefall that has delayed the start of the first rotations up the mountain.

Alan Arnette reports that more than 80 Sherpas were in the Icefall this morning as they continued their work to shuttle gear up to Camps 1 and 2. But the collapse of the ice along the route caused all of them to turn back. Apparently there was a traverse over a large crevasse that required four ladders to complete, and the entire thing came crumbling down. The Khumbu Ice Doctors will now have to search for an alternate route through the dangerous Icefall. Fortunately, no one was hurt in the collapse.

This is not uncommon, and is large part of why crossing through the Icefall is so dangerous. This portion of the mountain is incredibly unsteady, and the Ice Docs work all season long to keep the route safe and open. This sounds like it was a major collapse however, so it could take a day or two for them to find a new path. You may recall that this route was described as safer and shorter than the ones used in the past, and hopefully that won't change following this incident.

Alan also says that his team had its Puja ceremony a few days back. The Puja is an important step for any climbing expedition, as no one can start up the mountain until it is finished. During the Puja, a Buddhist monk brings the climbers and Sherpas together to ask permission from the mountain gods to safely pass up Everest, or what ever other mountain they are climbing. Traditionally, the monk will also bless their gear and ask the gods to keep the climbers safe. While it is taken very seriously by everyone, it is also a time to celebrate and have too.


With the Puja over, the teams are then ready to start the climb, but the unusually heavy snowfall continued on Everest over the past couple of days, preventing anyone from going higher than Base Camp. None of the commercial teams have passed through the Icefall as of yet, and no one other than the Sherpas have been up to Camp 1 or 2. Hopefully that will change shortly, as it is now time to begin acclimatizing for sure. In fact, some of the squads have actually gone off to other mountains to begin their acclimatization process. For instance, American climber Jim Davidson has moved over to Lobuche East where he'll go as high as 6118 meters (20,075 ft) on the summit. He hopes to wrap up that climb today, and head back to Everest BC.

Over on Annapurna, the teams continue to play the waiting game. The weather has remained bad there too, not allowing teams to make their summit pushes. Heavy snows have blanketed the upper slopes of the mountain in powder, making it extremely unsafe. Avalanches are common on Annapurna even in the best of conditions, but with so much snow falling on the mountain, breaking trail is incredibly difficult, and the risks of avalanche too high. For now, everyone must bide their time, and wait for things to improve.

ExWeb has posted a round-up of news from other 8000 meter peaks, and much of the news is the same. Poor weather continues across the Himalaya, including on Manaslu where Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger had hoped to make a spring attempt after their winter climb was thwarted. According to reports, the duo returned to the mountain in early April only to discover that more snow had fallen in their absence and they couldn't even locate their cached gear under all of the powder. They elected to pull the plug on the expedition altogether, and have now returned home.

The same story is being reported on Shishapangma, Cho Oyu, and Dhaulagiri, where ExWeb says a team of trekkers ran into serious trouble a few days back. Heavy snows caught the unprepared team off guard, and they were forced to take shelter in Base Camp where a climbing team offered them assistance. Apparently, whiteout conditions continue there now, making it very difficult for anyone to go anywhere.

Finally, tomorrow marks the one year anniversary since the massive avalanche claimed the lives of 16 porters on Everest. I'm sure it will be a solemn occasion on the mountain as the Sherpas and western climbers all think about that day. Many of the people on the mountain this spring were there last year too, so I expect there will be some memorial services and ceremonies held. I have no doubt that those who lost their lives will be on the minds of the climbers the next few days.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Climbers Arriving in North Side Base Camp, Nat Geo Interviews Raphael Slawinski

The start of the 2015 climbing season continues to unfold as expected. Teams are continuing to arrive in Everest Base Camp on the South Side, where they are being greeted by unusually heavy snow that is delaying the start of their acclimatization rotations. Meanwhile, the first climbers are now en route to BC on the North Side as well, as some other notable mountaineers arrive in Kathmandu.

Will start with news from the North Side today. While climbers from the Nepali side of the mountain have been slowly making their way out to Base Camp over the past week or so, those heading north generally have to wait for the Chinese to open the border into Tibet. That has now happened, and the teams who will be climbing from that side of the mountain have begun to cross over and are now making their way to BC as well. Unlike on the South Side however, they can actually drive to the start of their climb, so they generally take a few days to get there by stopping the towns of Nyalam and Tingri for acclimatization purposes.

But North Side Base Camp is quickly becoming a hive of activity, as Sherpas from the major teams have arrived onsite and are quickly getting the camp prepared for the arrival of the climbers. According to reports, there will be roughly people attempting to summit from the Tibetan side this spring, with about 150 Sherpas joining them.


Among the notable expeditions hitting the North Side this spring is Kilian Jornet's attempt at a speed record from that side of the mountain. The Spanish ultra-runner has not left for the Himalaya yet however, although that doesn't seem unusual. We know that he'll be we acclimatized before he arrives in the Himalaya, and will most likely want a late summit attempt anyway so that he can avoid bottlenecks and traffic jams near the summit.

Also heading north is Raphael Slawinski, and his climbing partners David Goettler and Daniel Bartsch. They'll be attempting a new route along the Northeast Ridge this spring, and if successful it'll be the first new route opened on Everest in more than a decade. The trio will make the attempt in alpine style, without oxygen, fixed ropes, or Sherpa support. The team is on its way to BC now, but prior to their departure National Geographic conducted an interview with Slawinski about their expedition. In it, he shares thoughts on his motivation for this climb, details on the route itself, their projected schedule, and much more.

Young climber Matt Moniz is on his way to Kathmandu as I write this. He'll be attempting a double summit of Everest and Lhotse from the South Side, and the first full ski descent of Lhotse as well. He's climbing with Willie Benegas, and should arrive in Nepal tomorrow where he'll catch his breath briefly before heading out to Base Camp.

ExWeb is reporting that route fixing has begun on both side of the mountain with teams of Sherpas installing ropes that will eventually be used by the commercial climbing teams. According to reports, the rope fixing team on the South Side have passed through the Khumbu Icefall and have gone up all the way to Camp 2. That means that once the weather clears, the climbers can start their acclimatization rotations on schedule. That should happen in another day or two. Meanwhile, on the North Side, the ropes have been placed all the way to the North Col, setting the stage for the climbers on that side of the mountain too.

Finally, Alan Arnette has checked in from South Side EBC where he is told that the new route through the Icefall is safer and shorter than it has been in the past. He also says that there is a fast new Internet service in Base Camp that will help facilitate better communication, although it comes at a cost of $40 for 1GB of data.

Alan also says that helicopters are a common site in BC this year, despite the fact they were suppose to be banned. He counted 10 flights just in the time that he wrote his most recent blog post. In other words, the Nepali government continues to promise things, but not deliver. Hopefully some of their pledges will become reality.

That's all for now. More to come soon.

Himalaya Spring 2015: A Train Tunnel Under Everest, News From Annapurna, and More

The climbing teams continue to make their way to Everest Base Camp, with some large groups expected to arrive there this weekend. As we wait for them to get settled, and begin their first training sessions and acclimatization rotations, there is still plenty of things to report on, including some mountaineering stories that are making a splash with the mainstream media.

One of the more spectacular stories to hit the newswire over the past few days is this one  from The Guardian reporting that China has proposed building a train tunnel running through Everest. The tunnel would expand China's already impressive railway network into Nepal, and possibly would eventually link it to India. According to the article, engineers and builders would have to run some very long tunnels through the Himalaya, including one that would pass through Everest itself. The project could be completed as early as 2020.

When I read this story I had to check to make sure it wasn't dated April 1. This seems so outlandish that I didn't think there was anyway it could be real. Not only would this be an engineering project of epic proportions, it would bring a new level of disruption to the Himalaya that would alter the landscape there forever. While a new rail line would probably be good for business in Nepal and this part of the world in general, I'm hoping they'll find an alternate route to run it through. Only time will tell if this story will actually become reality, but I sure hope it doesn't impact the mountain too much.

Elsewhere, National Geographic Adventure has posted a story about climber Matt Moniz. The 17-year old climber is back in the Himalaya this spring where he's attempting an 8000-meter double-header by climbing both Everest and Lhotse. He also hopes to make the first ski descent of the Lhotse Coulorr while he's at it. Ambitious plans for the spring for sure. In the article, Matt talks about his attempt at a different double-header, climbing both Cho Oyu in Tibet and than Everest. Of course, the attempt on Everest was scuttled due to the tragic avalanche there, but Matt made the best out of the situation, climbing Makalu instead. This year, he hopes to find more success on the world's tallest mountain.


The Himalayan Times has posted an article that shares details of the accident on Annapurna from a few weeks back that claimed the lives of Samuli Mansikka and Pemba Sherpa. The story calls the accident "a careless accident" saying that Samuli was not clipped into the ropes as the group made their descent following a successful summit. In the dark they lost their way, and climber wandered off on his own to search for the route down. He apparently took a misstep and fell 400 meters into a crevasse. Pemba's accident was actually a separate one, as he was descending on his own as well, and by coincidence ended up in the same exact crevasse.

Both men got a little careless on the descent and over confident in their skills. Climbing alone is rarely a good idea, and can result in tragedies such as this one. It is a sad story for both Samuli and Pemba's families for sure, but a good reminder to the rest of us to be safe and maintain the fundamentals while climbing in the mountains.

Speaking of Annapurna, it seems that the weather is finally taking a turn for the better. Carlos Soria hopes to launch his summit bid this weekend, setting off for the top on Sunday. Presumably, Aussie climber Chris Jensen Burke will also have a go at the summit as well, as she has been waiting for more than a week for conditions to improve too. Hopefully we'll have more information about their plans next week, as the forecast calls for improving conditions in the days ahead.

Similarly, solo climber Alex Barber is planning to head up this weekend as well with an eye on reaching Camp 3 as part of his acclimatization process. He is currently recovering from a bout of food poisoning, but is finally regaining his strength now. He will set off on Sunday to, going directly up to C2 where his gear is cached. He'll then climb to C3 on Monday, although he indicates that the route is filled with deep snow at the moment.

That's all from the Himalaya today. More news to come next week.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Kilian Jornet Departing for Kathmandu, Still Waiting on Annapurna

Kathmandu is now seeing a steady stream of arrivals as climbers from around the globe descend on Nepal's capital prior to the start of their expeditions in the Himalaya. There will be many notable arrivals in the days ahead, with some of the best mountaineers in the world traveling to Everest, Lhotse, and a number of other major mountains. But one mountain athlete is sure to get plenty of attention his spring as he makes his bid for the speed record on the tallest mountain on the planet.

Spanish ultrarunner Kilian Jornet is preparing to depart for Nepal soon, where he'll pass through Kathmandu on his way to the Tibet. He will be climbing Everest from the North Side of the mountain due to the lower traffic on along that route. He also says that he will actually start his climb/speed-run lower in the valley, perhaps in the final village before reaching Base Camp. Kilian tells Barrabes.com that he expects the project to take roughly seven weeks to wrap up, at which time he'll turn his attention to some of the major ultrarunning competitions in the U.S. and Europe.

While it will certainly be interesting to watch Kilian's speed-record attempt unfold, it should be noted that there really isn't going to be a time to compare it to. No one has ever done the speed record from the North Side before, and since he is starting further down the mountain, his time won't compare to someone who has started in BC for instance. Still, we all know that Kilian puts on a show when he is focused on a project, and I expect this will be no different. He'll do some impressive things on Everest for sure, but it will still be interesting to see how he performs at such high altitudes. Jornet has never had to deal with the thin air on a Himalayan peak, and this will be a very different test for him.

Kilian should be departing for Kathmandu sometime this week.


Meanwhile, over on Annapurna, another Spaniard is getting ready for his climb. Carlos Soria has checked in from Base Camp and says that the weather remains dicey at the moment. Heavy snows have fallen on the mountain, creating unstable conditions that are keeping all of the teams in BC at the moment. They hope to launch summit bids sometime this week, but unstable conditions and continued poor weather will likely dictate when they can proceed.

Annapurna has a reputation for the being the most dangerous mountain in the world. It is well known for having numerous avalanches, which makes the climbers there very cautious about when they go up. Teams arrived early on the mountain this year in an attempt to summit before to much spring snow fell on its slopes, and while there was some early success, the climbers there now have to wait to see when a window will open. It is still incredibly early in the season however, so hopefully that chance will come soon.

That's all for today. More updates from the Himalaya soon.

Himalaya Spring 2015: Expeditions to Watch

This weekend many climbers from across the globe will set out for Nepal at long last. Even though there has already been action in the Himalaya this spring, the season won't truly get underway until next week when the teams begin arriving in Kathmandu in droves. It'll take them some time to get out to their various Base Camps, but things are about to get very interesting in the big mountains.

To prepare us for the season ahead, Alan Arnette shared a post yesterday detailing some of the major expeditions to watch in the weeks ahead. Most of these climbs center around Everest of course, but several will focus on other major peaks too. Alan himself will leave shortly for Nepal as well, where he'll be attempting Lhotse this spring.

Among the climbs that Alan recommends keeping an eye on this year are an expedition to the rarely visited North-Northeast Ridge, where Canadian Raphael Slawinski will be joined by Germans David Goettler and Daniel Bartsch to attempt a new route without the use of Sherpas or supplemental oxygen. This side of the mountain has only been scaled one other time, but a Russian team back in 1996. The trio will be going up the ridge along a different path however.

Kilian Jornet's speed attempt on Everest will certainly get plenty of attention as well. His original plans were to make the attempt from the North Side, but Alan's report seems to indicate that is no longer the case. Considering the challenges and uncertainty that come with climbing in Tibet, and the fact that some operators switched sides and cancelled climbs on the North, perhaps Kilian has had to change up his plans as well. That will make things difficult for him, as the larger crowds on the South Side will certainly alter his approach.

Other interesting expeditions on the schedule an attempt to ski the Lhotse Coulair on Everest by Matt Moniz and Wilie Benegas. Alan says the coulair has never been fully skied before, and these two climbers will do it after summiting Everest. British climber Kenton Cool has ambitious plans for the weeks ahead as well. He'll first attempt to summit Everest – something he has done 11 times in the past – before moving on to Kangchenjunga and eventually K2. 23-year old Brit Rupert Jones-Warner will attempt to summit Everest from both the North and South Side, using a helicopter to travel between the two Base Camps on the respective sides of the mountain. Finally, German climbing legend Ralf Dujmovits is returning to Everest once again to attempt to summit without the use of bottled oxygen. Ralf has already climbed all 8000-meter peaks, but feels he has unfinished business on Everest after using O's to summit that peak.

That's the run-down of Alan's suggestions for climbs to watch this spring. Of course, I'm sure there will be plenty of other interesting expeditions to keep an eye on as well. The season is only about to get underway, so there should be plenty of action to come.

Prominent Mountaineers Making Plans For Spring Himalayan Expeditions

The winter climbing season is still in full swing, but already some of the more prominent mountaineers are looking ahead to the spring season in the Himalaya, which will once again be a busy one. Everest will of course be at the epicenter of those efforts, but there will be plenty of action to follow on other major peaks as well. While many climbers have yet to reveal their plans just yet, here are a few that we know about already.

Last week it was revealed that 76-year old Carlos Soria will attempt a double-header in the Himalaya this spring. In fact, he will actually depart for Nepal this Saturday so that he can get started on his acclimatization well ahead of his climbs. Carlos hopes to make an early attempt on Annapurna (8091 m/26,545 ft) and then jump over to Dhaulagiri (8167 m/26,794 ft) afterwards. If all goes according to plan, he'll add two more major peaks to his already impressive resume. As he prepares to depart, the Spaniard says that he is feeling good and looking forward to the challenge ahead.

Despite having been to Everest on six previous occasions, Ralf Dujmovits isn't quite done with the mountain just yet. He tells Stefen Nestler that he plans to return to the Big Hill this spring to attempt to summit without oxygen. Ralf has climbed all of the 8000 meters peaks, and with the exception of Everest back in 1992, he has done so without the use of supplemental oxygen. He aims to return this year and remedy what he now sees as a blemish on his climbing record.

Ralf will be climbing from the North Side this time out, and he is saying that this will definitely be his last expedition to Everest. He is far from finished climbing or pursuing other adventures, but at the age of 53 he is now seeking challenges elsewhere.

Of course, the other major event to take place on Everest this spring will be Kilian Jornet's attempt at a speed record. After setting impressive new marks on both Denali and Aconcagua in 2014, he'll have his work cut out for him on Everest. There is no question that Jornet is an impressive athlete, and I suspect he'll put in an impressive show on the tallest mountain on Earth. But he has never operated at an altitude like he one he'll experience on Everest. It will be interesting to see if he can maintain the level of performance that we've seen out of him in the past when he gets above 8000 meters (26,246 ft).

There will of course be plenty of other expeditions to follow in the weeks ahead. We're about six weeks off from the start of the spring season, and it is already shaping up to be an interesting one.